Chapter 3. THE CARE OF FLOORS

To look its best a room must have a clean, softly lustrous floor whatever the finish or covering may be. Such floors are not difficult to achieve with the equipment and materials available at small cost to today's housekeeper.

For waxed wooden floors and resilient coverings there are long handled buffers and applicators of modest price, while electric polishers can be rented inexpensively from hardware and grocery stores. Self-polishing waxes make the care of many floorings easier and to apply them there are applicators with containers for the wax, controlled by a trigger.

WAXED WOODEN FLOORS predominate in all but the kitchens and bathrooms of most homes so we shall discuss them first. Wax is sometimes applied directly to softwood floors, but for these as well as for hardwoods a finish for the wood is highly desirable for appearance and ease of maintenance. If the finish on your floors is badly worn away in traffic areas, or if the wood has never been finished properly, save yourself a headache by having it sanded down to clean wood and refinished. Electric sanders can be rented: sealers are especially easy to apply. So the job could be done without outside help.

FOR WOODEN FLOORS in good condition, whatever the finish, the routine care is the same if they are waxed. They should be dusted regularly with a vacuum cleaner, soft brush, or untreated mop. Once a month, or as needed, they should be polished with a weighted buffer or electrical polisher. At this time fresh wax should be applied to areas that look worn. About twice a year the entire floor should be rewaxed. A paste wax is the most durable and is recommended generally, though liquid and even some self-polishing waxes can be used if you prefer them.

BEFORE PASTE WAX IS APPLIED the floor should be cleaned thoroughly. For this purpose use a liquid wax, or one of the special cleaners made for removing embedded soil from waxed floors. In this category are Bruce's Floor Cleaner, Preen, and Beautiflor. Like liquid wax these special cleaners contain a dry cleaning agent such as naphtha, plus wax and other efficient dirt removers; they loosen the soil and remove old wax, yet leave a film of clean wax on the floor. Directions for using these products are given on the container. Read them carefully to obtain the best results. The general instructions are as follows:

First vacuum the floor carefully to remove surface dust and dirt Shake the container to be sure the contents are thoroughly mixed before applying the cleaner. If it has been stored in a cold place and become thickened, stand the can in hot water for a while, or hold it under a hot water faucet, and then shake it. (Never heat any wax preparation over an open flame.)

YOU CAN STAND UP FOR WAXING. You do not need to get down on your hands and knees to apply cleaning wax to a floor. Use one of the inexpensive, long handled applicators that are made especially for this purpose. One kind makes use of steel wool pads that greatly aid the cleaning action. Pour a little of your cleaner onto the floor, and using the applicator, rub with the grain of the wood to loosen the dirt which will be picked up by the cloth pad, or by a cloth placed under the applicator pad. Change cloths as they become soiled and work until the floor has been completely cleaned.

IF YOU PREFER HAND CLEANING, use essentially the same method. Pour a little cleaner onto the floor, spread it with a clean cloth, and rub it in to loosen the dirt which will be removed by the cloth. Turn the cloth as it becomes soiled and apply more cleaner where it is needed. Use fine steel wool dipped in cleaner for difficult spots. A thin layer of wax will be left on the floor when you finish and this should be buffed.

IF YOU ARE USING AN ELECTRIC BUFFER let the wax dry for twenty or thirty minutes before polishing the floor. If you polish by hand or with a fresh pad on your applicator, wait only a minute or so and then buff while the wax is still moist. It will be much easier.

FOR ADDED LUSTER and a long-lasting finish follow the cleaning wax treatment with a coating of paste wax.

Dampen the pad on your long handled applicator with water. With a knife or spatula spread paste wax on the pad. Rub it over the floor in the direction of the grain so that the wood is coated with a thin even layer. It is important for good results that the layer be thin. If too much wax is used, the floor will be left gummy and difficult to polish.

FOR HAND WAXING use a dampened cloth, folded in a pad. Wipe the pad across the wax then spread it in a thin coating over the wood. Follow the instructions given for liquid wax cleaners in polishing the floor.

WASHING A WAXED WOODEN FLOOR is seldom necessary, if it is well kept and if sticky materials spilled on it are wiped up promptly with a moist cloth. However, it can be washed without damage if you use a cloth well wrung out of mild suds. Wash a small section at a time and rinse each area before moving on to the next. The important thing is not to get the floor too wet Buff the floor afterwards, when it has dried thoroughly. Rewax it if this seems necessary.

LACQUERED WOODEN FLOORS with a glossy finish do not have to be waxed. They can be washed with a mop wrung out of mild lukewarm suds and rinsed with clear water. A treated mop can be used in dusting them if they are not waxed. If they are waxed, follow the directions given for waxed wooden floors.

VARNISHED FLOORS are also sometimes waxed, but this is not necessary. If not waxed, they can be dusted with a treated floor mop. A floor finished with waterproof varnish can be washed by the method described for lacquered floors. If the varnish is not waterproof, avoid washing unless it is absolutely necessary. If wash you must, use a cloth tightly wrung out of a mild soap or detergent solution and do a small area at a time, rinsing carefully with another cloth wrung as dry as possible out of clear water. Use a thick pad of newspaper under your pail as a precaution against spills, and do not let water dribble or stand on the floor.

SHELLACKED FLOORS must be kept scrupulously waxed, or spilled water will leave white spots and blotches. Wipe up immediately any water spilled on a shellacked floor. If it is soiled, clean the floor with a cloth moistened with alcohol or with a mixture of turpentine and alcohol (equal parts). Rub lightly or you may take up the shellac.

OILED FLOORS AND WOODWORK should be dusted with oil-treated cloths or floor mops. They can be washed if necessary with warm suds made with a mild soap or detergent Rinse as you clean, using as little water as possible. Dry with a soft cloth. When thoroughly dry, apply a fresh coating of oil polish, being careful to remove all excess oil before polishing the wood to a soft luster. Too much oil is as unsatisfactory as too much wax. It leaves a dust-catching, slippery surface. Oil polishes with a paraffin or linseed oil base are best.

PAINTED WOODEN FLOORS look better and are easier to keep in good condition if they are waxed. Wash them with warm water and a mild soap or with any of the cleaners described for painted walls and woodwork. Use fine steel wool dipped in liquid or paste wax or a mild scouring powder to remove stubborn spots and marks made by rubber heels.

UNFINISHED WOODEN FLOORS are almost impossible to keep clean. Sweep them with a broom or with your vacuum cleaner brush and wash them with suds made with soap or a detergent. Again, use as little water as possible to avoid raising the grain of the wood. Use a brush and scouring powder on bad spots. A little household bleach in the washing water will lighten the wood and perhaps improve its appearance.

THE ROUTINE CARE OF MARBLE FLOORS, sometimes found in hallways, is not difficult. Sweep them with a soft floor brush, your vacuum cleaner brush, or dust them with an untreated mop. Before discussing a more thorough treatment for marble that is dirty and stained, we hasten to set down two important "don'ts": don't use acid cleaners on marble because they etch the surface of the stone and leave an ugly yellow stain that attracts dirt; don't use soap (especially with hard water) because it leaves an unsightly film on marble.

MARBLE THAT IS IN GOOD CONDITION often needs only to be wiped with a soft cloth wrung out of plain water, or water that has been softened with washing soda, Calgon, or Noctil. Detergents such as Wyandotte Neo-Suds, Dreft, and Vel, are admirably suited for ordinary cleaning. If the marble requires an abrasive to remove heavy soil, the powder selected should be mild and alkaline, otherwise the surface will be scratched. Powders containing silicas are too harsh and should be avoided. Whiting, a calcite, is also harsh, especially for polished marble. Bon Ami, base feldspar, can be used on unpolished marble but is not recommended for prolonged or repeated use on polished surfaces.

Wooden Floors / Ceramic Tiles Marble experts recommend Wyandotte detergent* as the ideal agent for scrubbing marble. It is a mildly abrasive soapless cleaner, in appearance a gray powder.

TO CLEAN MARBLE WITH AN ABRASIVE first wipe the surface with a soft cloth that has been wrung out of plain clear water. Then dust the surface with the cleaning powder, or dip a moist cloth into it, and rub the marble until it is clean. With a fresh cloth rinse the cleaned surface carefully so that every trace of the powder is removed. If a large area is being cleaned it is best to do a small part at a time, rinsing and drying each section before going on to the next. Should the surface look dusty or streaked after drying, too much powder has been used or it has not been well rinsed. Go over it again with clean water. Last of all, buff the marble with a clean soft cloth or better yet, a piece of chamois leather. Waxing is optional.

THE FINER POINTS OF MARBLE CARE, including the removal of stains and the use of an all-over poultice to restore the beauty of badly stained or yellowed marble, are discussed in the chapter on furniture care.

SLATE AND TERRAZZO FLOORS can be dusted with a soft brush or vacuum cleaner and washed with warm suds made from soap flakes or a detergent. Rinse and wipe them dry. If your floor is new, wait at least a week before washing it to allow the cement to set. Spills can be wiped up with a damp cloth. A wax finish (any type) can be used to make slate floors dark and glossy. Terrazzo floors should not be waxed unless they are "sealed." If sealed, they can be waxed if desired. If your floor has not been sealed, the S. C. Johnson Company recommends its product, Cong-u-dust, sold through janitor supply outlets.

UNGLAZED CERAMIC TELES, usually found on bathroom floors, are easy to keep clean, but always immediately wipe up spilled medicines, paint or any other substance that might make a stain. Then scour the spot with an abrasive powder. Unglazed tiles are highly absorbent and such stains may penetrate deeply and be very difficult to remove. Tiled floors usually can be kept clean simply by wiping them with a damp cloth or sponge, or water to which a softener has been added. Scouring powder does not harm unglazed tiles, but it should be thoroughly rinsed away or it will dry in the cement between the tiles; it can be applied with steel wool if the floor is very soiled. A cellulose sponge mop will do an effective job on these floors, with a touch-up by hand in odd corners. Un-glazed tile floors are never waxed.

OLD PAINT STAINS on unglazed ceramic tile can sometimes be removed with a standard paint remover, or with "Tile Bleach," sold at paint and hardware stores. Follow the directions given with these products, and test the effect of the paint remover first in some inconspicuous place. Another method is to soak a thick pad of cotton cloth with hydrogen peroxide and place it on the stain, then cover the first cloth with a second that has been saturated with ammonia water. This is a good bleach. Repeat it several times if necessary. Another treatment for paint stains, which is good for ink too, is to combine one part of trisodium phosphate, one part of sodium perborate, and three parts of powdered talc. Mix these chemicals with strong hot soapsuds to form a paste. Apply the paste to the stain, let it dry, then brush it off. You may have to repeat this treatment at least once. Simply remoisten the mixture and leave it on the stain. Applications of hydrogen peroxide between the paste treatments sometimes helps.

FLOORS OF COMPOSITION TELE (made of resinous binders and fibers) are non-absorbent and resistant to moisture and stains. Use an untreated mop to dust them and a wet mop, wrung out of clear cold water, for a routine cleanup. For a more thorough cleaning use lukewarm water and a mild soap or detergent. Rinse with a mop wrung out of clear water. Self-polishing waxes may be used on these floors, or finishes recommended by the manufacturer. Do not use oil polishes, liquid polishing wax, or paste wax, strong soaps, chemicals, or sweeping compounds. Do not coat them with varnish, lacquer, or shellac.

VINYL PLASTIC FLOORING is becoming increasingly popular, due to its attractive appearance and easy-care features. There are a number of varieties such as rotagravure print, vinyl-asbestos tile, calendered vinyl, and flexible homogeneous tile. All are highly resistant to abrasion and to grease, bleaches, acids, and alkalies-more so than any other hard-surfaced flooring. They can be washed with soap or detergent and water, and waxing is optional. Either self-polishing or polishing waxes can be applied.

LINOLEUM may be found today in almost any room in the house. It is attractive, practical, and can be used as a rug, or as wall-to-wall covering. Printed felt-base linoleum comes in attractive designs. It must be kept well waxed or the print will wear away, since it is applied to the surface. Inlaid or tile linoleum patterns extend through the material, but waxing is desirable to provide a high gloss finish.

CARE OF LINOLEUM. Whatever the type, linoleums should be guarded against too much water and against harshly alkaline soaps and detergents that damage them. Wash them with a cellulose sponge or string mop, wrung out of suds made with a mild soap or detergent. Avoid scouring powders that break their sealed surface. Or wash them with one of the special cleaners recommended for them (Armstrong Linoleum Cleaner, Kleen Floor, etc.). Sweep them with your vacuum cleaner or a soft brush. For dusting use an untreated mop.

ANY TYPE OF FLOOR WAX can be used on linoleum, but a water base (self-polishing) wax is recommended. It is easier to apply and can be removed with a concentrated solution of the cleaning mixture. Stubborn spots can be removed with No. 00 steel wool, dipped in the cleaning mixture.

TO PROTECT LINOLEUM AGAINST DENTS the Armstrong Cork Company recommends putting a four inch block of wood under each leg of heavy equipment such as a refrigerator, and furniture rests (which it manufactures) on the legs of chairs and tables.

LINOLEUM THAT HAS BECOME WORN and discolored through misuse can be finished with a good deck or floor paint but beware of other finishes. Lacquers, varnishes, etc. cause damage and should never be applied.

RUBBER TILE, resilient and sound-absorbing, should be guarded against grease, oil, and strong cleaners. However, types which are highly grease-resistant have been developed for kitchens. Sweep rubber tile floors with your vacuum cleaner or a soft brush; dust them with an untreated mop. For washing rubber tile floors use lukewarm suds made with a mild soap or detergent. Rinse carefully. Steel wool and scouring powders can be used safely to remove stubborn stains or soil from these floors.

WAX FOR RUBBER TELE FLOORS.In the past, self-polishing waxes have been the rule for rubber tile. However, the S. C. Johnson Company now states that extensive tests have shown that rubber tile is not damaged by solvents in liquid and paste polishing waxes and that they can be used. For kitchens, self-polishing waxes are best because they are easy to apply and to remove. Like linoleum, waxed rubber tile often needs only to be damp-mopped.

Asphalt Tile/Cement Floors

ASPHALT TILE can be dusted with a damp mop or an untreated dust mop. For washing it, use suds made with a mild soap or a detergent and cool water. Special finishes are made for asphalt tile or you can use a self-polishing wax. Such finishes however are not essential. Oil polishes and ordinary waxes should not be used. Asphalt tile is often used in basements and laundries because of its superior resistance to water.

CORK TILES are given a steel-disc polish at the factory, a process that seals them, or a thick coating of vinyl plastic. They should be kept well waxed and any type of wax can be used, but polishing waxes are best for them. Cork tile floors can be washed with soap or detergent and warm water, and spots can be scoured with steel wool. No other finish than wax is recommended.

OTHER FLOORINGS that are becoming popular, especially for entry halls and enclosed porches, are colored ceramic tiles (glazed and unglazed); quarry tiles, made of a variety of stone cut in tile shapes and polished smooth; terra cotta, which is made of glazed hard-baked clay tiles; flagstone and bluestone, polished; floor brick (glazed); and paving brick (unglazed).

A SEALER IS RECOMMENDED for all such floors. The S. C. Johnson Company suggest its product, Terra-New, for white or very light floors in this group, whether factory-sealed or not. For sealed floors of glazed brick or tile (except white or very light ones) either polishing or self-polishing waxes are recommended. For these floors a cleaning wax such as Jubilee or Maid of Honor is suggested because soap-type cleaners tend to combine with cement in the joints to leave an unsightly scum.

UNPAEVTED CEMENT FLOORS should be swept with a vacuum cleaner, a broom, or a push brush, using a sweeping compound if desired, to keep down the dust. For washing them use a wet mop or long handled scrubbing brush and plain water. If the cement is very dirty, add two to four tablespoons of washing soda or trisodium phosphate to the washing water. Rinse the floor thoroughly with clear water and let it dry. If grease stains remain, sprinkle them with washing soda or trisodium phosphate and let it stand for about half an hour, then rinse.

WATERPROOF AND DUSTPROOF CEMENT FLOORS can be had by coating them with a solution made by adding a pint of water glass, obtained from a hardware store, to four pints of cool water. Apply this to a thoroughly clean dry floor, using a mop or brush, and let it dry for twenty-four hours. Then rinse with cool water and apply another coat. Three or four coats are sometimes given to provide a good hard surface.

CEMENT FLOORS CAN BE PAINTED with a good deck paint. If painted, follow the directions given for a painted wooden floor. They can be waxed, if desired, with either polishing or self-polishing wax.

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