Chapter 4. RUGS AND CARPETS

Now, presumably, we have the floors finished and looking spic and span. What about the rugs and carpets? No matter what material they are made of or how much they cost, they will look faded and dull if they are not kept fresh and clean.

DAILY CARE is the same for all types. A quick brushup with a carpet sweeper, especially in areas of heavy traffic, will remove dust, dirt, ashes, and crumbs, and fluffs up the nap so that it is kept soft and attractive. Dirt found on rugs includes sharp-edged particles of grit which rub against the fibers and weaken them. Modern carpet sweepers remove with efficiency most of this dirt before it is ground into the rug.

AT LEAST ONCE A WEEK rugs and carpets should be thoroughly vacuumed. This will take care of most of the dirt particles mat the sweeper has missed and will fluff up the pile. A thorough cleaning with a vacuum cleaner means at least seven strokes over every foot of the surface.

AT LONGER INTERVALS a rug requires additional beauty treatment. It needs to be shampooed to remove the grime that adheres to the fibers making the colors look gray, and the cutting particles of embedded grit not reached by a vacuum cleaner.

Surveys show that carpets last much longer if they are shampooed every three months. In the past this was practically impossible because of the expense and inconvenience of sending them to a professional cleaner, for the alternative was a hands-and-knees affair with rug shampoo and a hand brush. Most carpets went gray as the task was postponed from month to month, and became worn-looking before their time due to cutting ground-in dirt.

A NEW TYPE OF CLEANER makes it possible today for rugs and carpets to be shampooed frequently with little more trouble than carpet sweeping involves. Long handled applicators of the roller brush type (the best), are equipped with built-in dispensers for a liquid shampoo. Fingertip action spreads the cleaner as a foam over the rug (which of course has been vacuumed first) and as it dries, solidified dirt rises to the surface and stains are loosened. After the rug has dried thoroughly-usually from three to four hours but sometimes overnight-this dirt is simply vacuumed away, leaving the nap clean and fluffy and the colors bright.

LIQUID SHAMPOOS for rugs do a better, more thorough deep cleaning job than the dry types, which are difficult to remove after cleaning. In applying them the best method is to criss-cross your strokes, using a light foam to avoid soaking the carpet through to the mat. The directions you receive with your applicator will tell you how to operate it so that too much foam is avoided, and it will provide detailed information on other points. This includes a warning to slip waxed paper discs under the legs of chairs and tables, to be left on the carpet while it is damp, to avoid stains from slides and castors. If the rug or carpet must be walked on before it has dried completely, make a pathway for traffic by spreading uncolored wrapping paper on the floor. Another precaution is not to get the rug too wet. The shampoo won't hurt the carpet but it is uneconomical to use more than you need and more time will be required for drying.

AND NOW FOR SOME GENERAL ADVICE about the care of rugs and carpets. Small rugs should not be flapped out of windows or doors to rid them of dust. Such treatment is likely to break the yarns in the backing. Beating rugs is definitely passe. If bits of yarn sprout from a rug snip them off with sharp scissors; don't pull them out. Similarly, clip the ends of charred fibers from cigarette burns, then clean the area with a detergent solution and rinse. Once or twice a year turn your rugs around to distribute wear and, when you move heavy furniture to do this, lift, don't shove. Rubber or plastic slides under castors are a good idea; they prevent damage to the pile.

SPECIAL PROBLEMS INVOLVING RUGS include insect damage, shrinkage, "bleeding," and rippling.

INSECT DAMAGE. Spraying woolen and part woolen rugs with 5 per cent DDT spray once a year will safeguard them against moths and carpet beetles. All-nylon or rayon rugs are not attacked by insects.

SHRINKAGE. Few rugs, if any, are guaranteed against shrinkage if they contact excessive amounts of liquids, including plain water. This is because they are stretched on the loom when they are woven. When they are wet, the weave simply returns to its natural state, the amount of shrinkage being determined by the type of fiber and the looseness of the weave. Where dimensions are not important, shrinkage actually improves the quality of a rug; the weave becomes tighter and more luxurious and the rug lasts longer. Where dimensions are important, as in wall-to-wall carpeting, remember to be careful not to get it too wet when shampooing it. There is less hazard from the shampoo or foam-type rug cleaner since its use involves the least possible amount of water.

Sometimes a rug that has shrunk can be resoaked, stretched, and the backing resized to correct shrinkage. However, this treatment is seldom satisfactory. Ordinarily it is better simply to cut down the size of the mat under the rug and not to try any restretching.

"BLEEDING" more often results from spilled liquids than stains from the liquids themselves. Bleeding can result from any of three situations.

WHEN A RUG IS SOAKED in any area, the liquid may go through it to the mat which is often made of a jute-like material in which cheap dyes are used. The liquid in the mat causes the dyes in the mat itself to bleed up through the carpet. Certain types of rug backings also are tinted with low quality dyes that have the same tendency to bleed up through the carpet when it is soaked. The remedy for this is quite simple. Reclean the soiled area lightly, using your rug shampoo. This will remove the dye.

WATER-SOLUBLE DYES also cause bleeding. In some carpeting low cost water-soluble dyes are used, but fortunately this situation is not common, and occurs usually only in the least expensive carpeting. A water-soluble dye will bleed on contact with any liquid and is difficult to deal with because a light spot is left on the carpet when the dye is picked up. The only sure protection against this type of bleeding is to make sure that water-soluble dyes have not been used in the carpet you buy. If you are uncertain of the dyes, test the colors in an inconspicuous place before using any cleaning preparation. Even in this case you cannot be sure because a carpet of this type will often bleed in one area and not in another.

RIPPLING is caused by uneven shrinkage due to soaking one area more than another. It may occur after cleaning and generally results from a double action: the backing and the fibers shrink at different rates, causing an unevenness in the carpet. This rippled effect usually disappears after a week or so of normal use. If it does not, try recleaning the rippled section, then stretch it flat and place heavy furniture on it to hold it taut. In this way it may be possible to eliminate or at least reduce the ripples.

SPOTS AND STAINS ON RUGS should be given prompt attention because they are easier to remove when they are fresh. Sponging with plain cool or lukewarm water will often do the job. Always use clean water and a white or colorfast cloth, without starch. Blot up spilled fluids immediately with paper kitchen towels, which are highly absorbent. In treating a stain always begin at the outer edge and work toward the center; this avoids spreading it. Wipe or pat the rug lightly; hard rubbing or brushing might disturb the pile. Special cleaning solutions recommended for particular stains should be applied to them directly with a medicine dropper.

Some spots set within a few hours and are then difficult, if not impossible, to remove. If a stain has set, the only method of dealing with it may be reweaving. You should give all stains prompt attention.

FOR FOODS SPILLED ON RUGS and for all stains of unknown composition, first remove any solid portions with a dull knife or spatula, then blot up all the liquid possible with a paper towel or a slightly dampened cloth. Sponge the spot with a cloth wrung out of clear water. If a stain remains after the water has dried completely, sponge it again with a solution made by adding a teaspoon of detergent to a cup of water. Rinse by sponging with a cloth dampened with clear water. Raise the rug if you can so that it will dry quickly. An electric fan, or a stream of air from your vacuum cleaner or hair dryer will help. Any trace remaining after this treatment is probably grease; wait until the spot is dry then sponge it carefully with cleaning fluid.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR REMOVING SPECIFIC STAINS such as ink, iodine, etc. from rugs, are included in the chapter Spots and Stains. Consult the index to locate the stain and follow carefully the special directions given, after reviewing the general instructions in this chapter.

SMALL COTTON RUGS, even those with latex backing, can be washed safely by home methods in tub or automatic washer. Use warm water and a mild soap with a softener, or a detergent. Rinse the rugs thoroughly in generous amounts of water and drip dry them on the line in the shade. Do not wring, rub, or twist them if you do them by hand. Shake fluffy chenille rugs lightly as they dry and give them a good fluffing up when they are completely dry. Round and oval rugs are often dried flat, to preserve their shape, on the lawn or on newspapers.

If you send cotton rugs to your laundry be sure to mark them for special attention, or they may be faded by strong soaps and bleaches.

GRASS, FIBER, AND SISAL RUGS- often used as summer floor coverings-are easy to keep clean with broom, brush, or vacuum cleaner. Turn diem over occasionally and brush the other side. Dirt sifts. through these rugs to the floor, so roll them up now and then and clean the floor underneath. An occasional dampening with a moist cloth is beneficial, but be careful not to get a fiber rug too wet or to rub it hard when removing a spot. Any kind of mechanical action damages a fiber rug and the damage is worse if it is wet. If they are badly soiled, use your roller brush type cleaning equipment.

PAINTING FIBER RUGS with worn or faded patterns, can make them look almost new. Use awning, or canvas dye, paint; this is a hardwearing waterproof paint that penetrates the fibers and dries to a flat finish. Also available is a special paint made for such rugs. Put plenty of newspapers under the rug so that you will not stain the floor underneath and apply the paint with a stiff brush. Cover a small area at a time, being careful to get the paint into all the crevices. Paint both sides if you wish, but be sure the first coat is thoroughly dry before you turn the rug over.

MATTING can be swept with a soft brush or cleaned with a vacuum cleaner. It is important to roll it up for a weekly cleaning of the floor underneath because dirt goes through it with the greatest of ease. Wipe it occasionally with a cloth dampened with plain water or water containing a couple of teaspoons of ammonia. But don't get it too wet or it will develop odors.

HOOKED RUGS AND NUMDAH RUGS can be cleaned with a carpet sweeper. We have already warned against the damage that can be done to a small rug by shaking it vigorously outdoors to rid it of dust. Such techniques are especially damaging to hooked rugs and Numdah rugs from India. The burlap backing of hooked rugs is easily broken. You can snip the sprouting ends of closely hooked rugs with scissors, but never pull on them or you'll be sorry. Numdah rags are made of matted goat's hair and come apart under rough treatment. They cannot be washed; have them dry cleaned.

FUR RUGS are also in a special category, and the method used to clean them depends upon the backing. If the backing is wool, they can be cleaned with cornmeal which acts as an absorbent. Sprinkle the cornmeal generously into the fur, then brush it out. Several applications of fresh meal, followed by careful brushing, may be necessary to get the rug really clean. For rugs that are mounted in any other way, or unmounted, wipe the fur with a cloth wrung out of suds made with pure white soap flakes or a mild detergent, being careful not to get the backing, or pelt, wet. Rinse several times with a cloth wrung out of clear lukewarm water. Add a little bluing to the last water if the fur is white.

PILE RUGS made of rayon, nylon, and other synthetic fibers, either alone or mixed with wool, are cared for by the methods given for wool pile rugs.

PADS UNDERNEATH RUGS make them pleasantly springy and prolong their life. They are usually made of fibers such as jute and do not have to be mothproofed in this case. Rubber sheeting underlays, used as an accident precaution under small scatter rugs, lose some of their ability to hug the floor through picking up wax and soil. They need to be washed now and then to restore them. Use warm water and mild soap flakes or detergents; rinse and dry.

UNDERLAYS OF PRESSED FIBERS require gentle handling but they are so open and porous that the dirt sifts through them to the floor. So roll the pad up now and then and clean underneath it. If you feel that you must do more than that, run your vacuum cleaner over it, using the floor brush attachment, not the rug cleaner. Manipulate it with long slow strokes, avoiding undue pressure.

LATEX RUBBER BACKED PADS can be wiped with a damp cloth but be sure the pad is perfectly dry before replacing it.