Chapter 6. FURNITURE CARE

A CAREFUL WASH FOR HARDWOOD FURNITURE is in order when it begins to look clouded and scummy in spite of conscientious dusting and polishing. You can choose between warm water with a mild white soap or unbuilt synthetic detergent, or a furniture wash that you can easily mix yourself. Old wax can be removed by applying liquid wax generously and wiping the surface promptly. Special cleaners are also made for furniture but sticky accumulations must be dissolved with water.

SOAP AND WATER, properly used, will not harm most finishes, but de luxe lacquered furniture, such as pianos, require special treatment For other finishes, squeeze a soft cloth out of light suds to make it as dry as possible. Wash a small area, rinse it with clear water, again using a well squeezed cloth, and wipe dry. Move on to an adjacent part and continue until the piece has been completely cleaned. And renew your suds as they go flat A soft brush inside the cloth will help on carved wood. This work must be done carefully and quickly because water should not stay on the furniture more than a moment or two. When it has dried completely, buff it to a lustrous finish with your favorite polish.

A HOME-MADE FURNITURE WASH, that is highly esteemed by some women, consists of three tablespoons of boiled linseed oil and two tablespoons of pure gum turpentine added to one quart of hot water. Mix well and allow it to cool. Wring a soft cloth out of this mixture and clean a small area at a time, wiping each section dry as you proceed. No rinsing will be necessary. Polish the furniture after it has dried completely.

A WHITISH BLOOM AFTER WASHING appears sometimes on furniture with a poor finish. Polishing usually corrects this. On varnished surfaces you can try wiping the furniture with a soft cloth moistened with pure raw linseed oil. For a shellacked piece use a cloth barely dampened with alcohol, wiping the surface very lightly in order not to remove any of the finish. Polish afterwards. The chances are that you will not know what the finish is, but if the furniture has been waxed, this makes little difference.

FOR THE FINE NEW PIANO FINISHES manufacturers rule out all washes, all polishes, and even the usual dusters. If the finish looks dull wipe it with an old, well-washed piece of chamois leather that is damp (not wet) and then remove the moisture with a second piece of dry soft chamois. New chamois leathers should be soaked in water for twenty-four hours before being used on a piano. If chamois is not available, dampened cheesecloth can be used.

FURNITURE IN SUCH SAD CONDITION that refinish-ing seems to be the only remedy might be improved by this treatment: make the linseed oil furniture-wash described above, using slightly more turpentine, and test it cautiously on the finish to make sure no harm will be done. Wash the piece carefully and let it dry. Now dip a cloth into linseed oil (either raw or boiled), then into rottenstone or very fine pumice, and rub it over a small area in the direction of the grain. Wipe it off with a cloth moistened with raw linseed oil, then go on to the next area. When the whole surface has been cleaned in this way give it a good polishing with a soft cotton flannel cloth. Repair minor blemishes and give it a second polishing. You can use either an oil or a paste wax on top of the Unseed. You may have trouble finding rottenstone or powdered pumice; if you cannot get it at your hardware store ask your druggist to order some for you from a wholesale chemical house.

FURNITURE POLISHES fall into two main classes, oils and waxes. Both have their advocates. For a discussion of these see "Furniture Polish" in the index. After choosing the type you want to use, continue with it or you may find yourself in trouble. Even a little oil polish on a treated duster can gum up a waxed finish.

Both types are good if they are used correctly. Oil polishes however should be avoided for blonde finishes because they tend to make wood a little dark. Select a light colored wax. Some polishes clean as they go; always read and follow the directions given for the kind you select.

APPLY POLISH SPARINGLY. Whether you decide upon oil or wax for your furniture, the first thing to remember is that it should be applied very sparingly. If too much is used it will be difficult to achieve a fine polish. It is better for the furniture, and easier for you, to apply a second thin coating if this seems desirable, than to struggle with a heavy application that has made the finish sticky.

RUB POLISH WELL. The second thing to remember is that there is no substitute for hard rubbing; do only a few pieces at a time. After you have applied a thin coating of polish, let it stand a little while (consult the directions for your brand), then rub it with the grain of the wood until a clean finger leaves no mark. Finish with a soft flannel polisher, putting a brush inside the cloth for a good job on carved surfaces. And if you want the best results possible on chests and desks, you should take the handles off the drawers.

TO MAKE YOUR OWN FURNITURE POLISH: a mixture of gum turpentine and raw linseed oil in equal parts is an old standby; another polish highly recommended by an expert in such matters consists of equal parts of boiled linseed oil, turpentine, and vinegar. As with standard polishes, the best results with these will be had if you use them sparingly and follow them with elbow grease.

FOR THE ORDINARY DUSTING OF FURNITURE always use a clean soft duster or the dusting attachment of your vacuum cleaner. Use treated dusters only on furniture that has been oil-polished.

MINOR CASUALTIES TO FURNITURE frequently can be dealt with satisfactorily at home. Light scratches and scars can often be made practically invisible by extra hard rubbing with polish alone. Some polishes are made especially for this purpose. Others contain stains that make even a fairly deep scratch inconspicuous. In a pinch you can rub a scratch on dark wood with a cut walnut meat to darken it.

WATER STAINS ON DINING AND COCKTAIL TABLES, not protected by special finishes, can be fairly well prevented by repeated thin applications of hard wax, well rubbed in. To remove a water mark from a waxed surface, first try wiping it with liquid wax to remove the old wax finish, and then apply a fresh coating of wax. To remove a water stain from an oiled finish use a little camphor or peppermint oil on a cloth wrung out of warm water containing a few drops of ammonia. If neither method removes the mark, rub it very lightly, in the direction of the grain, with a thin paste made of rottenstone or fine pumice, and linseed oil. Remove this with a cloth moistened with plain linseed oil and polish the spot. This same technique usually will remove heat spots too. Cigar ash can pinch-hit for the rottenstone or pumice.

ALCOHOL in cocktails, perfumes, lotions, and medicines can play havoc with a fine finish. Wipe them up instantly if they are spilled and rub the spot quickly with the palm of your hand or with a cloth moistened with an oil polish. Alcohol is a powerful solvent that dissolves some finishes. Light stains from alcohol mixtures, even when old, can sometimes be removed with the rottenstone and Unseed oil treatment described for heat and water marks. Try it on light burns too.

WHEN CANDLE DRIPPINGS FALL onto the table scrape off as much of the wax as you can, with a stiff card. The remainder can be washed off most surfaces. Or you can wipe the mark with a cloth moistened with cleaning fluid. Apply polish if needed.

SPILLED INK should be blotted up instantly-before it penetrates the surface. Press a dampened cloth on the spot to absorb the ink and keep turning the cloth to a clean place until no more ink is taken up. Do not rub, since that might force the stain into the wood. Ink can be washed off some finishes. On old stains you can try the Unseed oil and rottenstone method already described.

PAINT SPATTERS if they are fresh, can be removed from furniture with liquid wax, turpentine, or just soap and water. Old paint stains are a different story. Put Unseed oil on the stain and let it stand until the paint is softened, then scrape off as much as you can with a stiff card or a wooden spatula. Rub the traces that remain with rottenstone or finely powdered pumice, mixed with Unseed oil.

THE GRAYISH BLOOM that sometimes develops on highly polished furniture usually can be removed by wiping the surface with a soft cloth wrung out of warm water containing vinegar (about a tablespoonful to one quart of water). Rub the finish dry with a clean soft cloth. On a waxed finish a rub with liquid wax will usually remove the bloom.

DINGY-LOOKING CHAIR SEATS of rush, cane, or splint can be cleaned and revived by this beauty treatment: use your vacuum brush or a hand brush to remove all loose dust; next clean the seat with a mixture made by adding a tablespoonful of turpentine and three tablespoonfuls of Unseed oil to one quart of hot water.
Keep this solution hot until you have finished, by using a double boiler or setting it in a pan of hot water. Do not place it over a direct flame because both turpentine and linseed oil are highly flammable. Daub the wash onto the seat with a cloth pad, then scrub it into the crevices with a brush. Let the seat dry completely. If refinishing seems to be needed apply a thin type of floor sealer to both the top and bottom of the seat.

DEEP BURNS, SCRATCHES, STAINS and other serious mishaps to furniture call for the services of a competent cabinet maker or repairman.

TO CLEAN LEATHER FURNITURE use saddle soap preferably. It can be bought at shoe repair shops and hardware stores; follow the directions given on the tin. Or you can use thick suds made with pure white soap flakes. Squeeze your cleaning cloth or sponge as dry as you can in order not to get the leather too wet. Rinse off the soap solution with a clean damp cloth. Let the leather dry, then polish it with a soft dry cloth.

LEATHER TABLE TOPS AND UPHOLSTERY should be oiled thoroughly once or twice a year to keep them from drying out and powdering or cracking. Use castor oil, neats foot oil, white vaseline (for light colored leathers), or a good commercial leather conditioner. Do not use linseed oil or mineral oil. If you select neat's foot oil (obtainable at shoe repair shops) remember that it leaves a dull rather than a glossy finish. Apply the oil with a clean soft cloth when the leather is clean and perfectly dry. Rub it in with your fingers or the palm of your hand until no trace of the oil remains, or it will soil clothing. Artificial leather can be wiped clean with a damp cloth or one dipped into suds made with soap or detergent.

ROUTINE CARE OF UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE includes regular dusting with the upholstery attachment of your vacuum cleaner or with a stiff brush, and the prompt treatment of spots. Remove the cushions and dust them first. Put them outdoors afterwards for a good airing in a well shaded place to avoid sun-fading, or place them near an open window. Then dust the furniture thoroughly, getting into all the crevices. Dimes, nickels, and quarters, or lost silverware, are often found during the process-sometimes even scissors and knives -so probe carefully. In removing stains, especially those of unknown origin, always test the fabric first where it won't show, to make certain that no damage will be done. Directions for taking out various marks are given in the chapter Spots and Stains

Upholstered Furniture / Marble

UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE CAN BE CLEANED at home without a great deal of trouble. On materials damaged by water, notably pile fabrics like velvet, use a standard dry cleaning fluid. On materials not harmed by water use a good upholstery shampoo or a stiff soap lather. The foam type of commercial cleaner is the most effective of the various kinds on the market. The Bissell upholstery kit includes such a cleaner in a pressurized can, from which it emerges ready to go to work.

FOR BEST RESULTS upholstered furniture should be cleaned before it is obviously soiled. Dark patches caused by hair oils, perspiration, etc., may alter the fabric chemically so that light or dark areas are left even when it is clean. light cleaning before soilage is apparent will minimize this hazard and keep the material looking bright and new. It will also prolong its life.

A HOME-MADE UPHOLSTERY SHAMPOO: To prepare this, dissolve six teaspoonfuls of white soap flakes in one pint of boiling water and add two teaspoonfuls of ammonia or borax. Let mixture cool until it has jelled, then beat it to a stiff lather with an egg beater.

USE THE LATHER. Whichever cleaner you use, remember that it is the lather you want, not the water. If the stuffing in upholstery becomes wet, inexpensive dyes, often used in such fillings, tend to bleed into the fabric. Apply the lather with a small stiff brush to an area about the size of your hand; when it is clean, rinse the place with a sponge squeezed out of clear warm water. Move to an adjoining area and continue until the piece has been entirely covered. An electric fan will hurry the drying process, but don't put the furniture in the sun because colors might fade. Do not replace the cushions or allow the furniture to be used until it is completely dry.

VERY SOILED UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE is not an easy proposition and a professional can handle it best Many firms that specialize in cleaning rugs will clean your chairs and sofa also.

SPONGE PLASTIC UPHOLSTERY with warm suds. Lather thoroughly using a sponge, and rinse quickly. Don't let water seep through woven plastic materials.

SLIP COVERS of washable, colorfast, shrinkproof materials can be laundered in your washer and are not difficult to do. First shake or brush the dust from them, being especially attentive to seams and bindings. Mend any ripped places, then remove, or pretreat, spots and badly soiled areas. Wash the covers (zippers closed) with warm water and white soap flakes (plus a softener), or with a mild detergent. Two short washes of four or five minutes each are better than one if the covers are very soiled.

Run the machine for four or five minutes, extract the water, then wash them a second time in fresh suds. After rinsing, hang them inside out to dry-indoors or in the shade. When they have reached the damp stage, iron the ruffles or pleated flounces and replace the covers on the chairs and cushions to finish drying, but do not put the cushions on the furniture until the drying is complete. Slip covers fit better and undergo less strain from handling if you do not iron them all over.

WROUGHT IRON AND MARBLE-TOPPED furnishings have come into vogue again during the last few years. Such furniture usually requires little attention other than dusting, but it might be a good idea to discuss the special care that is required occasionally.

WROUGHT IRON is less subject to rust than cast iron but it is sometimes polished with liquid wax for extra protection. If a spot of rust does appear remove it with steel wool dipped in kerosene or with plain steel wool, and then wax the area. If you are renovating an old piece of wrought iron, considerable soaking with kerosene, followed by rubbing with steel wool, may be necessary to remove bad rust. Wrought iron can be painted, but use the paint made especially for it and follow the directions on the container.

THE ORDINARY CARE OF MARBLE, and some of the materials suitable for cleaning it, have been discussed in Chapter 3, (The Care of Floors). A soft clean untreated duster, or a damp cloth, is about all you should ever need for marble furniture, or a cloth wrung out of a warm suds made with a mild detergent. Do not use soap, which leaves a film on marble. Rinse, wipe dry, and polish with a soft dry piece of chamois leather.

A POULTICE FOR MARBLE, so yellowed and stained that it might seem beyond hope, is very effective. The method is also the easiest and best for carved marble, and statuary with its hard-to-reach corners and crevices. To prepare a poultice simply add water, cleaning fluid, or hydrogen peroxide to Wyandotte detergent,* whiting, talc, or marble dust, to make a mudlike paste. Apply the paste to the entire surface, or to the stained portion of the marble, in a layer about half an inch thick. A wooden spatula or paddle is good for this operation. Let the poultice remain for twenty-four hours or longer. If Wyandotte detergent is used, and marble experts strongly recommend it, the entire area should be covered, rather than just a part, and damp cloths should be applied to retard drying after the first twenty-four hours. All poultices should be discarded after use, excepting those made with Wyandotte detergent, which can be used again. Removal of the poultice should be followed by very thorough rinsing with clean water so that every trace of powder is removed. Sometimes a hose or a spray that can deliver a forceful stream of water can be used. From this beauty treatment old stained marble emerges clean and beautifully white.

STAINS ON MARBLE, like stains on other materials, should be given prompt attention. Old deep stains are difficult and sometimes cannot be removed, but light fresh stains often can be eliminated by gentle rubbing with a mild abrasive (volcanic ash, Wyandotte detergent, or Bon Ami, occasionally, on unpolished marble). In addition to abrasives there are bleaches, solvents, and reducers. The best bleach is hydrogen peroxide (17-20 volume, or hair bleach strength) to which a few drops of ammonia have been added, but ordinary household bleach (Clorox, Prox, Star Water, etc.) also can be used. Solvents recommended are alcohol, acetone, white unleaded gasoline, lighter fluid, and cleaning fluid of the flammable type (the other types are highly toxic). Special preparations, including reducers, made particularly for marble can be obtained from marble companies.'1' They are difficult to find in stores.

FOR OIL AND GREASE STAINS ON MARBLE, caused by such foods as salad oils, and dressings or butter, apply a white blotter soaked in a solvent and cover it with a piece of glass or heavy cardboard. If color remains use a bleach. For linseed oil from spilled paint use a poultice mixed with a powerful solvent such as acetone. If necessary, follow this with a poultice mixed with a bleach.

STAINS FROM FRUITS, FOLIAGE, TOBACCO, etc. are removed with a poultice mixed with a bleach.

TO REMOVE IODINE STAINS FROM MARBLE mix the poultice with alcohol.

INK STAINS will usually yield if you apply a cloth soaked with ammonia to the stain. Alternate wettings with ammonia and denatured alcohol are effective for some kinds of ink on marble.

WASH OFF SMOKE STAINS with an unbuilt synthetic detergent. Deep-seated fire stains are poulticed alternately with solvents and bleaches.

MARBLE SURFACES ETCHED BY ACIDS from fruit or other sources may be smoothed with the finest sandpaper obtainable (a hobby shop can supply it) then polished with putty powder (tin oxide) or jeweler's rouge (peroxide of iron). Your druggist should be able to get these for you from a wholesale chemical house. Both materials may be used for an overall polishing.

SOMETIMES MARBLE IS WAXED as a protection against stains and scratches. Use a white water wax emulsion for white and light tinted marbles. Beeswax dissolved in turpentine is sometimes used on colored marbles, or Simoniz, or a light paste wax. However, waxing is not essential.

We have gone into considerable detail on the subject of marble furniture because information on this subject is hard to get and because special techniques are required. An added reason is that more marble furniture is being sold today than in the Victorian era. The methods described are applicable to all marble and also to alabaster-whether it composes a fireplace, floor, lamp base, or inkstand.

PAINTED FURNITURE is cleaned by the method described for painted walls and woodwork. It is often waxed to protect the paint from soil and to prolong its life

PLASTIC FURNITURE seldom needs more than a wipe with-a damp cloth, or a cloth wrung out of lukewarm suds made with a mild soap or detergent. Do not use chemical aids such as ammonia on plastics. Plastic table tops are sometimes waxed to improve their gloss and to hide small scratches. On acrylic plastics (lucite and plexiglas) use a white emulsified water wax.

CHROMIUM-PLATED TUBE CHAIRS and tables used in dinettes and kitchens need only a little washing now and then and a rub with a dry cloth. If they are corroded by salts and acids, their appearance can be improved somewhat by using silver polish but the results are not lasting if the plating has been damaged. Tube tables of magnesium or aluminum can be rubbed clean with soaped steel wool pads, rinsed, and dried.

Outdoor Furniture / Bamboo

OUTDOOR FURNITURE can be kept spic and span with suitable paints and waterproof varnishes. If in doubt as to the proper finish consult your furniture dealer. Cast iron furniture used in the garden must be protected scrupulously with a good outdoor paint. Before you paint, scrub off any signs of rust with steel wool dipped in kerosene or the rust will continue under the paint. A rustproof undercoating of red lead or aluminum paint is desirable.

WICKER, REED, CANE, AND BAMBOO FURNITURE can be dusted with a dampened cloth or dry untreated duster. Every now and then go over it with the brush of your vacuum cleaner to dust the crannies. Furniture made of genuine reed, cane, bamboo, or wicker needs good wetting now and then to prevent drying and splitting. Take it outdoors and spray it with a garden hose, or wash it with mild soapsuds containing a little ammonia. The furniture should not be used again until it has dried completely.

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