Chapter 11. TODAY'S SERVANT-ELECTRICITY

In today's busy world, when more and more women work outside the home as well as in it the only servant most of us have is that mysterious traveler-electricity.
No one completely understands electricity; but day after day it accomplishes prodigious chores. For a few cents' toll, like a partially-tamed genie, it gives us light, washes our clothes, makes our toast, polishes floors, washes dishes, provides easy ironing, makes coffee, does the dishes, cooks waffles, and runs the kitchen range. For diversion it provides radio and television shows.

ELECTRICITY IS EVERYBODY'S FRIEND - as long as it is handled properly. Abused, it bogs down on the quality of its service, blows fuses, burns out equipment, and even sets houses afire. Government safety specialists of the United States Department of Agriculture recently warned that at lease 12 per cent of all home fires today are caused by the misuse of electricity. Therefore it is important to know the basic rules for ingratiating our helper.

HAZARDS. Experts tell us that well equipped homes today are using twice as much electricity as they did a decade ago, yet many household wiring systems have not been modernized to take care of the increased load. Overloaded wires have become an ever increasing hazard as more and more electrical equipment, especially high-wattage and automatic appliances are brought into use. Overloaded wires may blow fuses, overheat and damage insulation, and start fires smoldering in walls. The remedy is a checkup of your home if you feel that larger wires and more circuits may be needed for the equipment you have or are considering buying. Some estimates say that as many as half of America's homes need their wiring systems modernized to keep pace with such equipment as home freezers, clothes dryers, air conditioners, and television sets.

CORDS. A proper regard for your servant, electricity, demands also that attention be paid to cords. Repair shops often find that their major job is the repair or replacement of cords that have been damaged, though it is really easy to keep them in good condition. Jerking on a cord to disconnect it invites trouble, because such treatment loosens the wires from the plug. The proper way to disconnect a cord equipped with a switch is to cut off the switch first and then reach down and pull out the plug. If there is no switch, pull the plug from the wall outlet first, then from the appliance. Take hold of the plug firmly (not the cord) and pull straight. If it sticks, rock it gently back and forth as you pull, to loosen one connection at a time. Even if a cord has a switch it is a good idea to disconnect the cord from the outlet too, when you have finished using a heating appliance.

CORDS COVERED WITH RUBBER INSULATION should be kept clean of accumulations of grease that sometimes collect on them in the kitchen. Grease permanently damages rubber. Disconnect the cords now and then and clean them with a soapy cloth, then rinse and dry them. Other cords should be kept clean too, and free of dust.

WATER IS A CONDUCTOR OF ELECTRICITY. Do Do not replace electric cords that have been washed until they are thoroughly dry; you are likely to get a shock if you handle live cords when they are damp, or with wet hands. Guard also against water spilled around electric appliances.

CORDS SHOULD BE KEPT FREE OF KNOTS, bends, and kinks which might break the fine wires inside or damage their insulation.

STORE YOUR CORDS, when not in use, coiled loosely in a drawer or on a shelf, or hang them round wooden pegs or on two or more hooks, in a cool dry place. Cords permanently attached to appliances can be wrapped loosely around them after the appliances have cooled. Heat is damaging to cords too.

DON'T SWITCH CORDS indiscriminately from one appliance to another; they may not be designed to carry the same load.

DEFECTIVE OR DAMAGED CORDS should be repaired immediately or else replaced.

EXTENSION CORDS SHOULD BE USED WITH CAUTION. Do not run them underneath rugs, or around radiators, pipes, or nails.

CORDS IN OUT-OF-THE-WAY PLACES can accumulate a heavy coating of dust which is sometimes touched off by a stray spark to a minor explosion. This is frightening, so try to keep the dust from collecting behind your electric washer or refrigerator.

FAULTY PLUGS, as well as cords, are a source of trouble. If the prongs are broken you will have to get a new plug. If they are merely loose, make sure that the wires have not been pulled out of place, then tighten the two small screws that secure them.

THE PROPER VOLTAGE and type of current (usually indicated on the appliance) and its own cord, must be used on all electrical equipment. For safety in buying equipment look for the UL stamp, the Underwriters Laboratories seal of approval. File all instruction tags, leaflets, and booklets in a safe place for consultation when needed; don't just read them and throw them away.

ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES DIFFER in their care and it is impossible to give specific instructions for each item and make. So if you have lost your instructions, it might be a good idea to write for a new booklet. Be sure to give the manufacturer or your dealer the model number of your appliance, which is usually stamped somewhere on it.

FUSES ARE SAFETY GADGETS designed to cut off electric power when there is trouble in a particular circuit. The little metal wall box containing them is usually somewhere in the basement. When an electric circuit is overloaded, a strip of soft metal melts in the fuse, thus interrupting the flow of electricity. Overloading a circuit with appliances, worn cords, and defective equipment will cause blown fuses. Check these possibilities and then unscrew the broken fuse and put in a new one. Fuses screw in just like an electric bulb and are very easily replaced, but make sure that the fuse you put in is of the same amperage. The number of amperes will be stamped on the screw end of the fuse. If the new fuse blows, or if you cannot locate the trouble, call an electrician immediately.

ELECTRIC LIGHT BULBS. Consideration of cords, plugs, and circuit loads is of course elementary. So are electric light bulbs, but are you really well informed about them? To begin with, their wattage should be suited to the task they are expected to perform and if you read or work with improper light you can expect aching eyes and glasses later. Any electric power company can supply you with information about this.

KEEP RUBBER AWAY FROM SILVER. A story will illustrate this point. Not long ago a young reserve officer, who had just been married, was called into service. Against better days he and his bride stored their wedding silver. They made sure that each piece was clean and shining, and wrapped it carefully in tissue paper. So far, so good. Clean silver wrapped in paper will stay bright for a long time because air is excluded. But to keep the tissue snug, they used rubber bands. Months passed and the officer completed his service and came home. When the silver was unpacked it was found to be marked with heavy black lines that would not be polished away. A jeweler was consulted but the damage was so severe that nothing could be done. The silver had been ruined because its owners, though careful, did not know that rubber corrodes silver in a matter of weeks.

KEEP LIGHT FIXTURES CLEAN. You may be careful about using the proper bulbs in your lamps and wall lights and still not be getting adequate light. If lamp bulbs, shades, and reflecting bowls are dusty and soiled you are losing a great deal of the light you are paying for. Switch the lamp off and dust the bulbs, shades, and other parts when you dust your furniture. If the bulbs and bowls have accumulated a greasy, dust-catching film, take them off and wash them. Reflecting bowls and glass shades can be washed like other glassware. Bulbs and fluorescent tubes, however, should never be immersed in water. When they are cool, clean them with a damp soapy cloth and wipe them dry. Be sure your hands are dry when you replace them.

IF BULBS AND TUBES STILL LOOK DARK after they have been cleaned, they are about to go and are giving poor light. Screw in new ones.

DISPOSE OF OLD BULBS AND TUBES carefully. In fires, they produce minor explosions. Thrown out carelessly they can cause serious cuts, especially on children. And the materials used in some fluorescent tubes may be harmful when they are broken.

TO MAINTAIN ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES in good working order keep them clean and properly oiled. Some have sealed motors and never need oiling, but failure to oil the ones that need lubrication sends many a helpful gadget back to the manufacturer for repairs. Use the type of oil specified in your instruction booklet and the proper amount. Too much is often as bad as too little. If you have lost your instructions write for new ones or consult your local dealer.

MOTOR-DRIVEN EQUIPMENT - including vacuum cleaners, sewing machines, mixers, and home freezers-should never be stored in a place where the temperature goes lower than 40F., unless they are designed especially to operate at low temperatures. Cold starting strains the motor and sometimes causes undue wear. If your appliance has been stored in a cold place, let it warm up at room temperature for several hours before you start the motor. This will give the oil or grease, used as a lubricant, a chance to warm so that it can do its work properly.

Cleaning Fixtures / Toasters

These are general rules that apply to all electric equipment.

TO CLEAN APPLIANCES. Now for more specific notes about cleaning various appliances.

RULE ONE: Never attempt to clean any electrical appliance without first disconnecting it.

RULE TWO: Disconnect all cooking appliances promptly when their work is done so that food and grease won't burn hard on the surface.

RULE THREE: While some electrical appliances are now being advertised as "immersible" never put any electrical appliance into water to wash it, unless the manufacturer specifically states that this can be done.

CHROMIUM PLATING ON TOASTERS, waffle irons, coffeepots, etc., usually needs only to be wiped clean with a damp cloth and rubbed to a polish with a soft dry one. If it is greasy use a cloth wrung out of hot water and detergent, then rinse with a cloth wrung out of clear water and polish the metal dry. Chromium will not tarnish and it does not usually require a metal polish. If spatters of butter or oil burn onto the finish and won't wash off, rub them with a little silver polish. Chromium is a soft metal, applied as a plating, and harsh rubbing can damage it.

THE GRIDS OF SANDWICH GRILLS can be cleaned with a spatula or steel wool, or unscrewed and washed or scoured.

THE GRIDS OF WAFFLE IRONS are never washed because this removes the oil used to pretreat them so that waffles won't stick. Wipe the edges of the grids with a dry cloth and brush out any crumbs that may have collected on the grids. A little wire brush is good for this. Then wipe the grids with a damp cloth. Store both these appliances with their tops down to protect the grids from dust.

CRUMBS SHOULD BE CLEARED FROM TOASTERS regularly too. Some toasters have a crumb tray that can be slipped out and brushed or washed. Others have a removable base which can be taken off and cleaned. A small soft paint brush is good for brushing crumbs from the wires inside but don't brush the heating units. They clean themselves. If your toaster calls for oiling, this is a good time to attend to it. And how about a plastic cover as a precaution against dust and the meandering mouse?

THE INSET PANS OF ELECTRIC ROASTERS, the racks and small utensils can be removed and washed like other parts of the same material. Wipe the outside of the roaster and the shell with a damp cloth and polish with a dry one. The shell should never be put into water because it contains the electrical elements and controls. Care also should be taken not to wet the electrical connections and coils of the broiler unit. Store your roaster with the lid slightly open to avoid the development of stale or musty odors.

ELECTRIC PERCOLATORS have their heating element in the base and it is important not to get it wet. Wipe the outside carefully with a damp cloth and polish it with a dry one. The removable parts can go into the dishpan. Wash the inside of the percolator with hot suds, rinse it well, and wipe it dry. About once a week clean the tube and the spout carefully with a percolator brush. All percolators, except those made of aluminum, can be given a thorough cleaning now and then by filling them partially with water containing about a teaspoon of baking soda. Let the solution "perk" for several minutes. This removes stale oils that may have penetrated the metal and improves the flavor of your brew. Try cream of tartar from the grocery, in the same way, for aluminum pots that might be darkened by soda. The care of the outside of your coffee maker will depend upon the metal.

ELECTRIC MIXERS AND FRUIT EXTRACTORS. Wipe the motor casings, or housings with a damp cloth. The removable parts can be washed like other equipment of similar material, dried, and replaced. For pushing down batters rubber mixers are better than spatulas or spoons which might cause damage if they were caught in the beaters. Your instructions may call for oiling.

MANY AUTOMATIC WASHING MACHINES rinse themselves and have sealed motors that do not require oiling. Washing machines which require oil should be lubricated regularly.

IRON ROUND DOILIES from center to edge with the weave of the material.

A SPECIAL MONTHLY CLEANING with detergents such as Calgonite and Electrasol, made for automatic dishwashers, is recommended by the makers of some washers. The washing machine is filled with hot water and when agitation begins, a solution made by adding two cups of the detergent to a gallon of water is poured in. To this is added four cups of household bleach. The washer is then allowed to run through its cycle. This solution cuts out accumulated soap curd, lint, and scum. In some non-automatic electric washers the washing mechanism can be taken out and cleaned. The wringer rolls of these machines also should be washed now and then, whether they are removable or not, and the tub should be washed inside and out, rinsed and wiped dry. You will have to be guided in such details by your instruction booklet. Washers should be left with their doors slightly open. If they are kept on a porch they should be protected with waterproof covers.

ELECTRIC CLOTHES DRYERS must be kept clear of lint in order to function efficiently. After each day's use, with the switch turned to "off," clean out the lint tray at the base of the dryer, then wipe the inside of the lint-catcher chamber with a damp cloth. Use the long handled brush supplied with the dryer to clean also the opening marked "air intake." The lint trap, however, should be checked for accumulations after every three loads of clothing. Once a month the inside of the dryer should be thoroughly cleaned.

TO VACUUM-CLEAN YOUR DRYER, which may be recommended in the instructions, attach the hose to the blower end. Begin at the top and move the hose slowly over the inside of the spinner basket. The lint is blown into the air intake opening. Now clean the air intake opening, first with the brush then with the vacuum cleaner hose, attached this time to the suction end of the machine. Complete the cleaning by inserting the hose into the air intake. Last of all remove the lint catcher and clean the chamber with the radiator attachment of your vacuum cleaner, not neglecting the part behind the fan. Clean the lint catcher and the screen with the same attachment. The outside of the cabinet can be wiped with a damp cloth, or cleaned with a type of cleaning wax that is made especially for such finishes.

DRYERS CAN ALSO BE CLEARED OF LINT with a long piece of cheesecloth, folded twice lengthwise. Slide the cloth into the air intake opening between the basket and the metal baffle at the side of the opening. Rotate the basket slowly by hand so that the cloth goes around with it, wiping away the lint. Then rotate the basket in the opposite direction until the cloth falls into the air intake chamber. Shake the cloth free of lint and repeat this operation on the other side of the drum.

These are general instructions for dryers. Makes may differ and you should consult your manufacturer's booklet if you have kept it. The main thing is that the dryer must be kept free of accumulations of lint.

THE SOLE PLATE OF AN ELECTRIC IRON sometimes becomes incrusted with burned-on starch which interferes with smooth ironing. This is usually due to ironing starched materials when they are too wet. Sometimes melted nylon (too hot an iron!) also burns on. If such coatings are not removed carefully the satin-smooth finish of the sole plate will be damaged. Disconnect the iron and, when it has cooled, wash the sole plate with soap or detergent on a damp cloth. If the stain is very stubborn use a little silver polish. Many sole plates are chromium finished and harsh treatment can damage them, so don't try to scrape the starch off with a knife or steel wool. But steel wool can be used on aluminum sole plates. Also-try not to scratch the bottom of your iron by running it over hooks and eyes, zippers, or buttons. Keep it slick with paraffin wax or beeswax.

LARGE IRONERS. The aluminum shoes or rollers of large ironing equipment also should be kept slick with wax, and washed when necessary like the sole plate of a hand iron. The muslin covers should be removed frequently and laundered, and the padding should be fluffed and turned occasionally so that it will wear evenly. A cleaning wax made for enameled finishes can be used on the outside. (See "Waxes" in Index.) To keep your electric ironer free of dust use a cover. Some ironers need lubrication while others do not. If you aren't sure, check your instructions or ask your dealer.

YOUR VACUUM CLEANER, with its array of special attachments, is one of your vital labor savers. If it is to do its work at peak efficiency it should be cleared regularly of dirt and dust. When you empty the bag-type dust container, rub the sides of the bag together to loosen embedded dirt. Every now and then take it outdoors, turn it wrong side out, and brush it thoroughly. The air you use to remove dirt is sucked out through the bag and the efficiency of your machine will be lowered if the current of air has to fight its way through dust-clogged pores. Machines fitted with filter pads need additional attention. The filter pads should be taken out now and then and vacuumed free of dust. About every six months they should be replaced. For top performance dust containers should be emptied each time you do your regular vacuum cleaning. Vacuum the brushes clean too before you put your machine away. Dust containers using water should be washed with soap and water after they are emptied. They should then be dried and replaced.

THE ROUTINE CARE of electric dishwashers, refrigerators, freezers, ranges, and garbage grinders is discussed in the chapter, We're in the Kitchen.

These are general instructions. They are not intended to supplant manufacturers' instructions for care and use. They may not cover the full range of electric equipment in your home but they can serve as a guide regarding other appliances. Use care with all your electrical aids, especially those that generate heat-irons, cooking equipment, and heaters. Be especially careful about electric heaters in the bathroom. Never switch them on or off with wet hands or from the bathtub. Always disconnect such equipment from the outlet when you have finished using it, whether or not it has a switch. Electric equipment deserves to be pampered because it saves today's housekeeper hours of back breaking drudgery.

REPAIRS. And now, in closing this chapter, we offer a bit of advice about repairs to electrical equipment. If a small appliance breaks down and you do not have a repairman who inspires your confidence, box it, wrap it, and send it back to the factory.

Usually you can find the name and address stamped somewhere on the equipment. With the box send a letter. Address and stamp this letter and fasten it to the outside of the package with cellulose tape, or put it inside the box, and mark the package "Letter enclosed." If you enclose the letter, an additional stamp for the letter must be added to the postage. Explain in your letter what the trouble seems to be and ask whether the appliance can be fixed and if so, what the charges will be. Make it a nice letter. If the equipment has given good service and you have enjoyed using it, say so. Address the box to the Care and Maintenance Department of the factory and then wait. You are likely to be surprised at the service you receive. It may take a little time but your repair bill probably will be very low, and the equipment will come back to you functioning perfectly and looking new (provided, of course, that it is "fixable"). Sometimes you will not even be asked to pay for the service. This is because every reputable company wants its customers to be pleased with its products.

The principles hold true for larger equipment. When you write about an appliance too bulky to send, give the model number (stamped somewhere on the equipment) and either ask them to send the part you need, or to give you the name of a repairman in your area who is accredited by the company.

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