Chapter 14. FABRICS AND FINISHES

THE BEWILDERING ARRAY of new textile fibers and blends, with their variety of special finishes, has caused a wail to go up from the women who use them, the manufacturers who spin the synthetic fibers, and the textile experts in the government who are called upon to answer questions about them.

THE SPECIAL FINISHES and no-ironing materials are intended to ease the laundry burden of today's busy women and to give them pleasure through beauty of texture, feel, and drape. This they certainly do. But each new material, finish, or blend, must be understood and treated properly in the laundry if it is to give its best service. Gone are the days when just plain cotton held sway in the clothing field with the other natural fibers-linen, wool, and silk. Today we have these and synthetics too-in uncounted blends.

LABELING. While some yard goods and clothing are labeled carefully to tell just what they are, much is not, or the information given is incomplete. Women need to know exactly what the material is and, if it is a blend, just what fibers have been used and in what proportion. They need to know what finish, if any, has been applied and whether it requires any special attention. If the material is colorfast, they should know what it is fast to: dry cleaning? washing? light? perspiration? crocking? (loss of color through rubbing when the material is dry)? They have to know whether a garment must be dry cleaned and, if it can be washed, exactly how to do it. Women queried by the government said they wanted this information on garment labels because they have learned that saleswomen often have not been briefed adequately on the newer materials.

Labels / Soiled Collars

A BOX FOR LABELS, whether they are detailed or not, with each one marked clearly to indicate the garment it belongs to, is a must for today's home, regardless of whether clothing is to be washed or dry cleaned. Things have been happening even to wools and cottons, and information is needed about them as well as about the synthetics. The information that follows is intended to help when labels are lacking, give vague instructions, or have been lost. It has been obtained from the manufacturers of synthetic fibers, notably the Du Pont Company, and from leaflets and bulletins prepared by textile experts of the United States Department of Agriculture.

THE MANY SPECIAL FINISHES on fabrics today are intended to give fibers desirable properties which they lack and to increase the wearability of various materials. They can be applied to all fabrics. Some special finishes are permanent, some vanish with the first dry cleaning, and others are lost gradually with repeated launderings or cleanings. It is important to know what finish, if any, has been applied to the cloth you use and how long the finish can be expected to last; also whether it can be restored by a dry cleaner.

HANDLING SPECIAL FINISHES. Most finishes do not require special treatment in laundering or dry cleaning, but a few do. Materials with crease-resistant finishes are best laundered with warm water because some of them are removed by repeated laundering in hot water, which also causes heat-set wrinkles. Chlorine (household) bleaches must not be used on cottons and linens with such finishes unless the label stipulates that they are safe. The finishes are usually made with resins, some of which react unhappily to the chlorine in the bleach, to cause stains and to weaken or even to destroy the fabrics. Some glazed finishes on cotton, rayon, acetate, and nylon go with the first washing; others last for a long time. Since you may be asked to pay a higher price for a "finished" fabric, look for a label that says "permanent," and for any special washing instructions. Moth-resistant finishes on woolens also vary in the length of time they last so that an accurate label is needed there. Another important label is for water-repellants. Some finishes of this sort are removed with one dry cleaning while others last through several washings or dry cleanings. One kind can be renewed by the dry cleaner.

OTHER SPECIAL COATINGS that are given to various kinds of cloth are the anti-curl finish for organdies, flame-and fume-resistant finishes for rayons, metallic coatings on coat linings, and finishes that resist mildew, perspiration, shrinkage, slipping, spots, and stains. There is a finish to reduce the static in silks, wools, and synthetics, and there are finishes for minimum-care and permanent pleats.

And now for a rundown of various materials, both old and new, to see what has happened to them and how best to keep them bandbox clean.

COTTON, of course, comes from a plant and is one of the oldest textile fibers known. From the standpoint of world use, it is still the king of fabrics. More clothing is made from cotton than from any other material. Cotton with a long fiber, or staple, is the finest, and "pima" is an outstanding long staple variety. Long cotton fibers are combed to make them lie parallel and produce smoother yarn; these are "combed" cottons. Mercerization is a treatment that adds a silky luster to cottons, increases their absorbent capacity, and makes them more comfortable to wear. Mercerized cottons do not require special care.

ORDINARY COTTON FABRICS, unless of delicate weave and color, can stand hard laundering with hot water and almost any soap or detergent, and ironing with a hot iron. They give very little trouble. White cottons, unless treated with a special finish which might interfere, can be bleached, and sterilized by boiling. They look their best if they are blued and starched.

VERY SOILED COTTONS. Ground-in dirt is hard to get out of any fabric and it is better to launder clothes before they are too badly soiled. However, when cottons are very dirty, here are a few tricks to help.

SOAK GREASY COTTON OVERALLS and work shirts for fifteen or twenty minutes in hot suds containing about half a cup of household ammonia. You can use the tub of your washing machine for this. After the soak, spin or wring out the water and wash the clothes as usual. For slipcovers, curtains, and play clothes that are very soiled, try a soak in warm water containing a detergent or a non-precipitating water softener. Use one half to one tablespoonful of either of these for each gallon of water. Soak the soiled items in this for ten to twenty minutes, then extract the water and wash them as usual.

SOILED COLLARS. Soil worn into the fabric on collars, neckbands, and the cuffs of men's shirts must be loosened before washing. Using the same detergent that you plan to use for washing the shirts, apply suds to the soiled areas and work them in with a brush, a sponge, or by rubbing the material between your hands.

THE NEWER COTTONS. To meet the demand for fabrics that do not need ironing, textile engineers have been working on blends, finishes, and weaves that enable cottons to drip dry, ready to wear. Seersuckers and plisses are made of cotton plus Dacron or Orion, which eliminates ironing, and special finishes are given to other weaves that make it wrinkle-and-spot-resistant. Some of the new cottons are the equal of the synthetics or close to them in their "no-ironing" quality and have the advantage of being more absorbent. However, they do look better with touch-up ironing.

WATER, OIL AND SOIL RESISTANT finishes are in the test stage for cottons. A new device, simple and inexpensive, can be installed on a standard loom to produce cotton cloth with a tight, tricky weave that gives it wind and water resistance without the use of chemicals. In addition to being practically waterproof the new cotton fabrics admit cooling air and are thus more comfortable to wear than materials with sealed pores. Since these advantages are achieved by a special weave, there is no laundering problem involved.

A NEW WRINKLE-PROOF TREATMENT for cottons is also expected in the near future. Such finishes today are always applied to piece goods before they are made into clothes and are satisfactory only for simply-cut garments because they resist not only undesirable wrinkles but desirable creases, making flat seams, pockets, and pleats difficult or impossible. A new treatment being tested lets a dry cleaner give the crease-resistant treatment to the clothes after they are finished so that seams and creases, once set, will stay. Tests have shown that garments treated this way keep their creases after many launderings, need little or no ironing, and resist unwanted wrinkles. Furthermore they do not require starch. Nice going indeed. If it all works out you can take your cotton dress to a dry cleaner and have it "set." But chlorine bleaches will still not be usable.

"FULLY ACETYLATED" COTTON is also in the laboratory stage. This is heavier than ordinary cotton but it dries faster and is stronger. Also it is more resistant to heat and rot. In appearance it looks like ordinary cotton but has a harsher feel, a matter that probably will be corrected by chemical treatment. Pleats that stand considerable wear can be ironed into acetylated cotton fabrics with a dry iron set for wool. They are easily reset after laundering, but you can iron the material flat if you wish, or you can pleat it a different way.

NEW PRETTY COTTONS. In another phase of current investigation are extra-pretty cottons that are also very practical-cottons that are softer, smoother, and more lustrous than any of the materials being woven today. Such cottons would be used for draped street dresses, underwear, and for jacket and coat linings. Production of these cottons involves chemical and mechanical treatment of the fibers, and exhaustive tests for laundering, bleaching, dyeing, durability, and tear resistance.

LINEN FIBERS, from the flax plant, are more durable than cotton and, since they vary widely from fine to coarse, produce a range of materials of different weights-from sheer handkerchief and dress materials to tweeds for summer suits and coats. Linen fabrics are absorbent and comfortable to wear in warm dry climates. They have a soft luster and good draping qualities, but they wrinkle easily unless given a special finish. The finishes make linens less absorbent, and less likely to shrink when they are laundered. If linens do shrink they can usually be restored to their original size if they are ironed damp. Laundering linen is discussed in the chapter dealing with dining rooms.

Fabrics made entirely of linen fibers are labeled "linen," "pure linen," or "flax." When blended with another fiber the law requires that it be marked to give the percentage of each fiber, or that the content be disclosed by weight. Materials of other fibers, treated or woven to look like linen, may be labeled "rayon linen," "nylon linen," or "silk linen." Other fibers with trade names using the syllables "lin" or lynn," etc., may be entirely of another fiber.

ALL-WOOL FABRICS, like the cottons, are no longer content with the old way of life. Naturally resilient and resistant to wrinkles without the help of chemicals or other fibers, they are cherished as they are. However, science is seeking to add new virtues to the old standby. In the offing are permanent pleats-which is to say more permanent-and woolens that resist soil and defy shrinkage. New treatments also are being sought that will make wool moth-, mildew- and acid-resistant. If a method is found to give acid resistance, acidic dyes can be used for woolens, which will mean clearer, more brilliant colors.

Woolens / Rayon

SHRINK-RESISTANT WOOLENS are actually in the test stage now. The process found is said to come close to eliminating or controlling shrinkage. A blend of resin chemicals is applied to the woolen fabric after it has been processed. The film with which the fibers are coated makes for toughness, durability, and flexibility. Besides making the wool shrink-resistant it helps reduce pilling-the formation of little balls of wool on the surface of the fabric. So, in the future, expect wools that can be tossed into the washing machine. Tests made showed that after a slight shrinkage in the first washing, repeated launderings in a home washer did not affect the treated fabric further.

LAUNDERING WOOLS. While waiting for the advent of this shrinkproof wool on the retail market, we had better follow, for washable woolens, the general procedure outlined for woolen blankets but wash sweaters and other woolen clothing by hand. Use mild detergents, water that is just warm, and the minimum handling that is involved in the soak-wash method. Remember to pretreat spots (a little soft brush is best) with your detergent. Blends of wool with silk, cotton, or synthetic fibers can be safely washed by the method used for all-wool materials.

WOOLENS SHOULD BE PRESSED with a warm iron, preferably with a press cloth to avoid scorch and shine. Use a stamping rather than a gliding technique and always leave them slightly damp, to finish drying on a hanger. They will have a fresher appearance.

SOME WOOLENS ARE NOT WASHABLE so you must look for the label.

KINDS OF WOOL. The label should also tell you whether you are buying worsted or wool (worsted has long fibers and is superior). "Virgin" on a label means the material was made with fleece right from the sheep. "Reprocessed" tells you that it is made of fibers left when wool is felted or woven, and "reused" that it has been reclaimed from wool products that have been worn or used. Camel's hair, mohair, angora, alpaca, and vicuna are made from the hair of camels, goats, and llamas; they are classified as wool and are washed or dry cleaned in the same way. Wools blended with another fiber should be labeled to tell what the other fiber is and its percentage, also whether it has been given a special finish.

SILK TODAY, once fairly inexpensive, is now in the luxury class. There is no other fabric quite like it. It is easy to sew, drapes beautifully, is absorbent and comfortable to wear, naturally resilient, and can be dyed in the full range of spectrum colors. Silk fibers, spun by a lowly worm to build the cocoon from which it emerges with wings, have a strength and natural luster adapted to fabrics and weaves of distinction. Most of the silk we have today comes from Japan, China, and parts of Europe. It is used largely for fine dress silks-taffetas, satins, crepes, and sheers. Do you know what to look for on a silk label?

KINDS OF SILK. "Cultivated" silk, with fine even filaments, is produced by domesticated silkworms. "Wild" silk, also called tussah, comes from wild silkworms and the filaments are thicker and coarser, suitable for heavier fabrics. Douppioni silk comes from cocoons that have grown together. The filaments have thick uneven nubs for weaves such as shantung and pongee. Waste silk is composed of short filaments from damaged cocoons or the less desirable outer parts of cocoons. It is used for rough-textured silks, crashes, and pile fabrics. These are sometimes labeled "silk noils." If the label says "pure dye silk," "pure dye," or "all silk" you can know that no other fibers have been included, and no weighting or other substances except dyeing and finishing materials.

CARE OF SILKS. Most silks are better dry cleaned, but some are washable. Shantungs, silk organdies, and paper taffetas lose some of their body in cleaning but this can usually be restored by the dry cleaner. Washable silks should always be hand laundered, very gently. The directions for this and the best type of detergent to use are given in the chapter on curtains, draperies, etc. Printed silks which are not entirely colorfast are often rolled in a towel, to remove excess moisture, and dried by gentle shaking until they have reached the proper dampness for ironing. Silks should always be ironed before they are completely dry because they may appear spotty if they are sprinkled. Improper laundering, as well as normal aging, tends to yellow white silk. Too hot an iron easily scorches and damages it.

THE NEWER FIBERS, which are not grown but are produced by chemical processes from various raw materials will be discussed briefly.

RAYON is the oldest of today's synthetic, or man-made, fibers. There are two kinds, similar in some ways, but made by entirely different processes, the viscose process and the cuprammonium. Viscose rayon, often called "Bemberg" from the company that produces most of it, is the official rayon.

Acetate Fibers / Washing

Materials made by the cuprammonium process are now labeled acetate. Both are made from cellulose, found in almost all plant life. Mainly the cellulose used comes from wood and cotton linters.
Rayon is woven into sheer and semisheer fabrics for dresses, coat linings, blouses, drapery, upholstery, and suitings. It is the only man-made fiber from which true crepes can be woven. Rayon has a soft feel and is absorbent; it drapes well, and adapts excellently to blends. Cool summer fabrics are made of it, but it can be woven also in heavy warm materials resembling wool. Rayon is usually washable but tends to be weak when wet so that plenty of water should be used and handling should be gentle. With wear, rayon tends to wrinkle so it is often given a wrinkle-resistant finish-sometimes finishes also for water resistance and shrinkage. Rayon is color-fast to sun, dry cleaning, washing, and perspiration. Napped rayon fabrics are highly flammable unless treated.

ACETATE FIBERS are used both for luxury and volume materials. They are silky, drape well, and often take the place once held by silk in satins, taffetas, jerseys, failles, and ben-galine. Properly dyed acetates offer bright colors, and unusual color effects can be obtained by blending acetate with other fibers. Subject to fume or gas fading in the past-color changes due to atmospheric conditions-today's acetates are likely to have been processed to overcome this handicap. By adding appropriate dyes before the fiber is spun, the color becomes a part of the fiber itself. These acetates are known as solution-dyed or dope-dyed. Acetates, less absorbent than rayon, dry more quickly. They are more wrinkle resistant but, with wear and washing, some acetate fabrics develop wrinkles that are hard to press out. Neither rayon nor acetate is attacked by moths if stored clean.

CARE OF RAYONS AND ACETATES. They are dry cleaned or washed by hand, depending upon their construction, finish, and the dyes that have been used So a label you most have. If the garment is washable and instructions for washing it have not been given or have been lost, this is the procedure recommended by one of the large producers of these two fibers:

Dissolve heavy duty detergent or soap in warm (not hot) water before dipping the fabric into it. Gently squeeze sudsy water through the fabric. Avoid rough handling and do not soak colored fabrics, which should be washed separately. Rinse thoroughly in clear lukewarm water, but do not wring or twist. Excess water can be removed by rolling the garment in a towel. Most rayon and acetate fabrics are best ironed when they are nearly dry. They should be pressed on the reverse side to avoid shine, with a warm iron (set for rayon).

NYLON, ORLON AND DACRON, are newer than rayon or acetate. They are spun by chemical and mechanical processes of an intricate nature from chemical elements found in such improbable materials as coal, air, water, petroleum, natural gas, (in the case of Orion) limestone.

Nylon, Orion and Dacron are versatile, no-ironing-needed, fibers. They share traits in common, yet each has its own characteristic qualities. They are lightweight but very strong, and resistant to moths and mildew. Cooperative in blends with other fibers, they contribute valuable qualities that might otherwise be lacking. They can be woven in super sheers, knits, pile fabrics, and sturdy materials suitable for work clothes. Dyes, finishes, and trim may make some clothing, fashioned of these fibers, unwashable; always look to the labeL If instructions for washable garments of nylon, Orion and Dacron are not given on the label, or if the label has been lost, use the procedure which follows, quoted verbatim from information supplied by the manufacturer of these three fibers, . I. Du Pont de Nemours and Company of Wilmington, Delaware:

PREWASHING INSTRUCTIONS. Just as for other washable garments, severely soiled areas generally require pretreat-ment with a thick paste made of a soap or detergent and water. Rub the paste thoroughly into the soiled areas, using the fingers or a soft brush. Soaking in suds, prior to washing for ten to fifteen minutes, has also been found to be helpful in severe soil removal. For spot or stain removal, follow normal procedures for other washable fabrics.

WASH WHITE GARMENTS SEPARATELY from colored or pastel garments and when possible wash white synthetics together. Frequent washing, preferably after each wearing, gives greater satisfaction.

WASHING PROCEDURE. Wash garments thoroughly either by hand or machine in warm suds (100^o F.) of a heavy duty detergent, or soap and non-precipitating water softener such as Calgon or Tex or a similar product. In using these agents, follow explicitly their manufacturer's instructions on quantity and when to use. The use of soft water cannot be overemphasized.

Consult washing machine manufacturers' instructions for washing times. Temperatures / Nylon.
In general, machine washing affords the best method for removal of stubborn soil.
Fabrics of delicate construction or trim, in most instances, should be hand washed. If they are machine washed, enclosing them in a mesh laundry bag is suggested for added protection. If the machine is equipped with a special fabric cycle, it can be used for this type of garment.

HIGH TEMPERATURES (in washing, rinsing, or drying), twisting, wringing, and spinning, tend to cause wrinkling. Minimize these as much as practical in either hand or machine washing.

BLEACHING, BLUING, or optical whitening agents (brighteners) may be used on many white garments. For their use on specific articles of clothing, observe the garment manufacturers' washing instructions. Also follow explicitly the directions on the containers of these agents for quantity and when to use.

RINSE GARMENTS THOROUGHLY in water to remove all traces of dirt, soap, or detergent. The addition of a water softener in the first rinse is helpful when soft water is not available.

DRIP DRYING. For drip drying, following machine washing, allow the garment to go through the recommended washing and rinsing cycles and remove before the final spin drying cycle. Place the garment while wet on a non-staining hanger and allow it to drip dry. Smooth the seams, cuffs, etc., with the fingers while the garment is still wet. Knit garments such as sweaters should be laid out flat to dry.

MACHINE DRYING. If a home tumble-type dryer is available use the complete machine wash and spin dry cycles. Then dry the garments at the "Low" temperature setting for about twenty minutes. Recent studies have shown that even greater satisfaction may be had if a drying temperature of 170^o F. is used, followed by five to ten minutes of tumbling without heat. Remove the garments immediately at the end of the drying cycle and hang on stainless hangers.

When in doubt, dry for the length of time suggested by the dryer manufacturer. Avoid tumble drying of pleated garments.

"IRONING. When ironing is desired, use a steam or a dry iron at the 'Rayon' or 'Synthetic' setting. The use of a press cloth is helpful in many instances. Ironing of garments of Dacron, Orion, or nylon is very easy and can be done in considerably less time than is required for garments of other fibers."

ANTI-STATIC RINSES. The tendency of clothing made of synthetic fibers to snap, crackle, and pop in cold dry weather, or cling to the body, can be reduced by special rinses. The clinging is due to the accumulation of static electricity in the cloth and is not limited to synthetics. Wool and silk also cling under similar conditions.

To reduce static build up, say Du Pont authorities, add a small amount of a liquid detergent, fabric softener, or special anti-static agent to the final rinse water. Liquid detergents and fabric softeners (often called "miracle laundry rinses") can be bought at food and grocery stores. For liquid anti-static agents go to a drugstore or to the notion counter of a department store. Typical products, known to produce results, are listed as follows by the Textile Fibers Department of the Du Pont Company: liquid detergent, Glim; fabric softeners, Sta-Puf and Nu-Soft; anti-static agents, Slip Ease and Nega-stat There are undoubtedly other products which are also suitable.

Wash the garments in the usual manner and afterwards rinse them in a solution of the product selected, according to the instructions on the container. Some people accumulate more static than others; in this case modify the amount to suit your static tendencies.

DRY-CLEANABLE GARMENTS of synthetic fibers can be given static protection easily by a competent dry cleaner. An anti-static dry cleaning detergent, such as Buckeye Clean Charge, is added in a 2 to 4 per cent concentration to the usual cleaning solution.

This treatment reduces static buildup to a point where it is not bothersome. It is not permanent and must be repeated each time the garment is cleaned. Washable garments with anti-static finishes are best washed with soap; detergents remove them.

CARE OF WHITE NYLON. Women who complain that white nylon yellows or discolors with use can blame it on one or more of four principal causes according to its manufacturers: the use of soap and hard water without a softener, improper washing procedure, insufficient rinsing, and the finish that may have been applied when the cloth was made. Properly laundered, white nylon should remain white. Here are some special notes on the proper laundering of white nylon and for bleaching nylon that has become discolored. They are from the Du Pont Company which makes most of the nylon fibers used by textile mills today.

LIKE OTHER WHITE MATERIAL, white nylon should never be laundered with colored materials. Clothing should be washed frequently, preferably after each wearing, and the washing should be thorough. Because nylon often looks delicate and fragile, women have probably erred in using soaps and detergents that are very mild, in a quick swish and rinse in a washbowl. Remember that nylon is tough enough to be used for carpets, fish nets, truck tires, hawsers, and ropes. Unless they are poorly constructed or the trimming is very delicate, nylon clothes and household furnishings will take machine washing with heavy duty soaps and detergents and this is the treatment recommended by the Du Pont Company. Specialty products, optical whiteners known as nylon whiteners or brighteners (Pro-Nyl, Nylonu) aid in keeping nylon white if they are used repeatedly and also can be used to improve the appearance of use-discolored nylon. In the latter case the improvement is not immediate but occurs gradually with a number of treatments. Heavy duty detergents often contain optical whiteners that act in the same way. Soft water is essential to any good washing procedure so, if the water you use is hard, add a non-precipitating type of softener. Badly soiled areas always should be pretreated with a thick paste made of water and detergent.

DIRECTIONS FOR BLEACHING WHITE NYLON while washing it in your machine: use warm water (100^o F.), a strong detergent, a softener, and a household bleach such as Clorox or Purex. (If the material has a resin crease-resistant finish, use sodium perborate instead.) The amount of bleach you use will depend upon the water capacity of your washer. Read and follow the instructions on the container. Some manufacturers of household bleach recommend adding a little vinegar to the usual solution.

Run the load to be bleached through a five to eight minute wash cycle, followed by the normal rinses and spins unless the load is to be drip dried. In that case stop the washer before the final spin.

FOR HAND WASHING AND BLEACHING use the same materials and procedure. Be sure to rinse thoroughly and do not wring or twist the nylon while washing it. Hand washed garments should be bleached periodically. Soak them for thirty minutes in warm water containing two tablespoon fuls of household bleach for each gallon of water and follow this with a thorough rinsing.

FOR STUBBORN DISCOLORATION that is not corrected by the washing procedure just described, the following treatment is suggested for restoring the whiteness of nylon. First wash it thoroughly; then, to about one gallon of hot water (160 F.), in an enameled container, add one package of Rit color remover and stir it until it is completely dissolved. Place the wet garments in this solution immediately and, keeping the temperature at 160 F., stir them gently. If whiteness is restored after thirty minutes, remove them and rinse thoroughly in hot water. Otherwise leave them for another thirty minutes, then remove and rinse them. (Do not let the heat of the water exceed 160 F., or hard-to-remove wrinkles may be set in the nylon.)

IF THIS IS NOT EFFECTIVE, try step two: add to a gallon of warm water two tablespoonfuls of household bleach and two tablespoonfuls of a detergent. Soak the garments for about thirty minutes, stirring them occasionally. Then rinse them thoroughly with warm water, and, after the final rinse, immerse the garments in about a gallon of warm water containing a tablespoonful of one of the optical whiteners already mentioned.

FABRIC BLENDS WHICH INCLUDE NYLON are laundered as if they were made entirely of the other fiber unless the manufacturer has given special instructions.

WASH-AND-WEAR PLEATED SKIRTS and dresses containing Orion or Dacron fibers, if properly handled, emerge fresh and crisply creased after many washings. Usually the blend contains 50 per cent or more of Dacron or Orion fibers, which contribute their ability to retain heat-set pleats to the other fiber.

HAND WASHING PLEATS. Wash pleated clothing in warm water, following the directions given for hand washing nylon, Orion, and Dacron. Hot water and vigorous rubbing should be avoided. After a thorough rinse in warm water hang pleated dresses on non-staining hangers, with the zippers or other fastenings closed. Skirts should be suspended by the band on skirt hangers, or pinned in several places to keep the waistband straight Finger-press the seams and trimming and let the skirts drip dry.

IF THE MATERIAL IS HEAVY, or you wish to speed the drying process, roll the skirt into a tubular shape with the pleats parallel and, beginning at the waistband, squeeze the water out gently from waistband to hem. (Never wring or twist a pleated skirt.) Shake it out and hang it up to dry.

MACHINE-WASHING PLEATS. While hand washing is best, some pleated clothing can be washed in a machine, and the guide here will be the manufacturer's label. Again, be sure that the water is just warm and make the washing cycle from three to five minutes. All water-extraction cycles should be omitted. Rinse thoroughly and follow with the drying procedure outlined for hand washing.

TO PRESS PLEATS. If, after a number of washings, it seems desirable to press a pleated garment, use a steam iron or a dry iron set for synthetics or rayon. Carefully align the pleats and press them on the reverse side, using a damp press cloth. Allow each area pressed to cool before handling it or lifting it from the ironing board. Pleated garments of Orion and Dacron blends can be dry cleaned too, and repleated by the dry cleaner.

HAND WASHING SWEATERS of Orion and nylon is also preferred, and is a must for those ornamented with sequins or other delicate trimmings. The rules are the usual ones for synthetics: warm water, strong detergent, or soap plus a softener, no strenuous rubbing, scrubbing, or twisting. A little soft brush, gently used, is very effective for spots. Follow the washing with a thorough rinsing in warm water. The addition of a fabric softener such as Sta-Puf or Nu-Soft to the final rinse water is recommended to keep these sweaters soft. Directions on the container will tell you how much to use. When you remove your sweater from the final rinse water, squeeze out excess water gently then spread it flat to dry. While spreading the sweater flat is the preferred method of drying, hangers can be used. Let it drip dry and it will still keep its shape. Orion and nylon sweaters do not shrink.

MACHINE-WASHING SWEATERS. If you decide to use your washer to launder sweaters, here are suggestions from the DuPont Company. Set the washer for a five to eight minute wash cycle and, after the last rinse (before the spin dry cycle), stop the machine and take the sweaters out dripping wet and dry them as described for hand laundering. If you use a home dryer, let the sweaters go through the spin dry cycle, and then dry them at a low temperature setting for about twenty minutes. Remove them immediately at the end of the drying cycle.

Pleats /Men's Shirts

FUZZING. Should your nylon or Orion sweaters fuzz, you can make them look better by brushing them lightly with a soft brush.

PARTY DRESSES. Whether you hand wash or machine wash little girls' all nylon or all Dacron party dresses will depend, again, on the manufacturer's tag. If the instructions have been misplaced or lost, the following procedure will be easiest and safest. First, remove delicate trimmings such as ribbons and bows, which usually are safety-pinned or tacked on with large stitches. Wash delicately constructed dresses by hand (take a look at the seams) after pretreating or spot cleaning where this is necessary.

If you decide to wash the dresses by machine do not include them in a heavy load, and do not wash white dresses with colored ones. Use warm water and a three to five minute wash cycle. Preferably, stop the machine before the spin dry cycle begins. Best results are achieved with drip drying and no ironing should then be required. Just straighten the hem, seams, and collar. If the weather is bad for drying, or if you need die dresses in a hurry, follow these directions for drying, but do not include dresses with pleats: remove excess water by letting the dresses go through several minutes of the spin dry cycle after they have been washed and rinsed. Then, using the lowest temperature setting possible, let them tumble until they are damp dry. Remove the dresses immediately and place them on stainproof hangers. If they need touch-up ironing, use a steam iron or a dry iron set for "rayon" or "synthetics." A press cloth may be helpful..

FOR WOMEN'S BLOUSES of Dacron, or Dacron and cotton blends, follow the directions for nylon party dresses, always pretreating badly soiled areas as described. Delicately made or trimmed blouses should be washed by hand; sturdier ones can be machine washed for five to eight minutes. The general rule for blends is to follow the washing instructions for the most delicate fiber in the fabric.

MEN'S SHIRTS. Use essentially the same technique for men's Dacron, or Dacron and cotton shirts. Drip drying gives the most wrinkle-free results for both blouses and shirts, but if you want to use a dryer for shirts set it at "low." Most recent studies have shown that best results are obtained with a tumble drying temperature of 170^o F., followed by five to ten minutes tumbling without heat. Remove the shirts immediately at the end of the drying period and place them on hangers. Shirts allowed to go through the complete drying cycle may need ironing, but it can be done easily and quickly -in about half the time usually required for a man's cotton shirt.

DISCOLORED OR STAINED SHIRTS or blouses of Da-cron, or Dacron and cotton blends, that are not satisfactorily clean after washing, can be given the following treatment: dissolve one cup of Calgonite or Electrasol (detergents used in electric dishwashers) in one gallon of water, using an enameled container. Submerge the garment completely and let it soak overnight, then wash it by the method given. Care must be taken not to expose the skin long to the Electrasol or Calgonite solution, or to get it in the eyes. If it should get into the eyes, wash them thoroughly with water.

WASH-AND-WEAR MEN'S SUITS. Hand washing is preferred for these, but they can also be done by machine. In either case it is important that the water not be hot nor the washing action vigorous, if the easy-care properties are to be maintained. And remember to pretreat badly solied areas and spots.

FOR HAND WASHING use warm water, a strong detergent, or soap and a water softener, and a container large enough to give space without crowding. No wringing or twisting, and be sure to rinse thoroughly.

FOR MACHINE WASHING, using the same materials, give the suit a five minute wash and remove it before the spin dry cycle starts. If your machine has a special fabric cycle, that is the one to use.

The preferred drying method for these suits, whether laundered by hand or machine, is the drip dry. Put the coats soaking wet on non-staining hangers. Suspend the trousers by their cuffs on pants hangers with the creases carefully aligned.

MACHINE DRYING. If it is necessary, or seems desirable, to use a tumble dryer for your wash-and-wear suit, allow it to go through the complete washing cycle. Then place it in the tumble dryer and allow it to dry for about twenty minutes at the low temperature setting. Top results in machine drying these suits, according to the most recent studies, are achieved if a drying temperature of 170^o F. is used, followed by five to ten minutes of tumbling without any heat at all. Take the suit out of the dryer immediately and hang it as described for drip drying. If it needs a little pressing use a steam iron, or a dry iron set for rayon, and a dampened press cloth. These suits may also be dry cleaned.

THE "AUTOMATIC" WASH-AND-WEAR SUITS, which are newer and are made of specially engineered Dacron or Orion textiles and sewn under closely controlled conditions, will stand the most vigorous washing and drying. Only occasionally will they need light ironing. These are the laundering procedures that have been developed, after many tests, for washing "Automatic" suits: after pretreating oil and grease stains with a solvent, and applying detergent paste to especially soiled areas, put the suit into the washing machine and wash it for five minutes in warm water (100 F.) with a strong detergent or soap, and a water softener.

Use the special fabric cycle if there is one, otherwise use the regular machine cycle. Run the washer through the complete cycle of spins and rinses. A fabric softener such as Sta-Puf or Nu-Soft in the final rinse will improve the drying performance of the suit and minimize static. Use one-fifth of the amount of softener usually recommended by the manufacturers of these products.

IF A TUMBLE DRYER IS USED for these suits it should be set at low to medium (140-160^o F.). Tumble for twenty to forty minutes, using the "wash-and-wear" cycle if you have it. Remove the suit immediately at the end of the drying cycle and put it on hangers. Best results with dryers have been obtained in those of an exhaust or vented type that have a cooling period during the last part of the cycle. In any case, high temperatures are to be avoided.

TO DRIP DRY "AUTOMATIC SUITS" they may be taken out before the final spin, or they may be hand washed and allowed to drip dry. Smooth the collars, cuffs, lapels, and seams while the garments are wet. If pressing ultimately becomes necessary use a steam or dry iron, set for rayon, and a damp press cloth.

SUCH SUITS ARE DRY CLEANABLE TOO, and this is advised if they accumulate stubborn stains or soil. Tell your dry cleaner what the material is.

EVEN TOPCOATS OF THE NEW FIBERS can go into the washing machine today. If the maker's tag says your 100 per cent Orion or nylon fleece coat is washable it means just that. Whether you wash the coat by hand or machine the general instructions are the same. Pretreat spots and stains; use plenty of warm water with a strong detergent, or soap with a water softener; no twisting or wringing, and give a thorough rinsing. Take it dripping wet from the last rinse water and put it on a strong hanger to dry.

If you use a machine, use the highest water level possible and a low temperature setting (100^o R). Wash the coat for five to seven minutes. Remove it before the water extraction cycle begins and let it drip dry.

FOR MACHINE DRYING let the coat go through the complete wash cycle to remove excess water, or if it has been hand washed, let it drip until most of the water has been removed. Then place the coat in the dryer at the lowest temperature setting available and let it tumble until it reaches the damp dry stage. Then remove it immediately and put it on a hanger. Shape the collar, cuffs, and seams.

SOILED NYLON AND ORLON COATS can also be dry cleaned, and this is advised for those that have acquired severe soil or stains.

VERY TOUGH AND DURABLE WEAVES are being produced today by combining Dacron and Orion fibers with rayon. These materials are acid-resistant, shrinkproof and colorfast, and they wash ready to wear. Among clothing made of them are smart looking uniforms for gas station attendants. If washing instructions were not given, use this procedure recommended by the Du Pont Company: after pretreating spots and areas of severe soil, put them into the washing machine at a temperature setting higher than that recommended for most synthetics (120^o F.) and wash them with a heavy duty soap. Du Pont textile experts say that soap, in their opinion, does a better job on grease stains.

TO AVOID LENT PICKUP it is best to wash such clothing separately from materials that shed lint. Using medium hot water, wash the clothing for twenty minutes or more, using enough soap to produce a heavy suds and about half a cup of a non-precipitating water softener (Calgon, Tex, etc.). Let the washer go through the complete cycle up to the final spin dry. If this treatment does not remove stubborn dirt or stains follow it with the Electrasol or Calgonite treatment described for Dacron blouses and shirts.

After removing the clothing from the rinse water, hang shirts and coats on hangers and trousers by the cuffs. Smooth collars, cuffs, and seams with the fingers.

IF PRESSING BECOMES NECESSARY use a low setting for your iron.

Machine Drying / Dynel

SUCH CLOTHING CAN BE DRY CLEANED. If, after long wear and many washings, creases lose their sharpness, have a dry cleaner reset them.

VICARA. We still have not reached the end of today's synthetic fibers and blends. There is the unobtrusive Vicara, made by complicated processes from the protein in corn. Not a strong fiber, Vicara appears in blends, giving desirable qualities to wools, rayons, and other materials. It gives woolens a soft feel-almost like cashmere-and helps them keep their size and shape, because Vicara does not shrink. To rayons and other materials it contributes the elasticity they would otherwise lack, and to acetates and other synthetics it gives absorbency and better reception of dyes. It is nice to know, sometimes, that Vicara is there. It presents no cleaning problem because it is a sturdy product with excellent chemical resistance. Vicara blends are dry cleaned or washed, depending upon the instructions given on the manufacturer's tag. If the garment is washable, simply treat it as if it were made entirely of the other fiber in the blend.

ACRILAN is similar to nylon and Orion. It is washed (if tagged washable) according to the instructions already given for Orion and nylon. The only fabric in which it is used by itself is a challis-soft, warm, lightweight, wrinkle-resistant and washable. Acrilan is combined with wool to make a soft washable jersey that requires little pressing, and with rayon to make a suiting material that keeps its crease marks when washed, but needs occasional light pressing.

DYNEL, spun from chemicals is exceptionally tough and versatile. Extremely resistant to strong acids, alkalies, and a range of chemicals, it finds an important place in clothing for industrial workers. It is used for blankets, socks, draperies, and a variety of wool-like materials. For Dynels marked washable, water up to 170 F. can be used. This is hotter than the hands can stand. Any kind of soap or detergent can be used. However, Dynel is very sensitive to ironing heat. Use a "cool" iron, never hotter than 240^o F of heat. (Usually wrinkles fall out of Dynel without any ironing at all.)

For clothing, Dynel appears most often in napped or piled fabrics and in blends. Fleece-type coats of spring and summer weights are made of Dynel, and they are lightweight, warm, and wrinkle-resistant. In appearance they resemble wool or cashmere. These can be washed by the method described for Orion or nylon fleece coats and need no pressing.

Pressing / New Fabrics

PRESSING TEMPERATURE. Proper laundering and drip drying eliminate the need to iron or press most of the clothing made of synthetic fibers and their blends. When ironing is desirable, however, it may be confusing to say, as for Dynel, that the iron should be "never hotter than 240^o F." How will you know? Here is a scale that will help you decide how to set your iron.

On most irons, according to fabric specialists, the temperature range is from 180^o to 550^o F. The temperature required for heavy cottons and linens is the highest setting-from 500 to 550^o F. The wool setting is from 450 to 500^o F.; lightweight cottons and some rayons, 400 to 450^o F.; and for silk it is about 350^o F. For synthetics the temperature is considerably lower than for silk. Ironing temperatures are lowered slightly when a steam iron or a dampened press cloth are used, and is recommended for synthetics.

HEAT, MOISTURE CONTENT, AND PRESSURE all must be considered for smooth successful ironing and it is not always easy to gauge any of these factors for the great variety of new fabrics we have today. If the iron is not hot enough it won't press out the wrinkles. If it is too hot it may glaze or melt certain synthetics.

To avoid casualties at your ironing board always begin with the fabrics that you know require the least heat, and work toward the heavy cottons and linens that need the most. If you are dealing with a material you do not understand, or a blend that puzzles you, set the iron for the synthetic temperature first. Or test your ironing temperature cautiously on the edge of an inner seam.

WHAT THE FUTURE WILL BRING in new fabrics and finishes can only be guessed, as the scientists work away with their test tubes and retorts. The stack of ironing keeps getting smaller as the new textiles appear, but at the same time women-and men too-must be more attentive to the composition and finish of the materials used in the clothes they buy. New materials always mean new techniques and, if these are not understood, the advantage may be lost. So no more tossing away of labels, please, when new suits and dresses are unwrapped, or you will find yourself in a fog of indecision when wash-day rolls around.

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